First Impressions of Trango Flex Cam
The Trango Flex Cam promises a blend of lightweight design and impressive range, a tempting proposition for any climber looking to lighten their rack without sacrificing versatility. Trango’s reputation for innovative gear, combined with the appealing price point of $44.49, made this cam a must-try. This piece of gear aims to balance weight, strength, and ease of use, a trifecta that’s often difficult to achieve.
I was drawn to the Trango Flex Cam to replace some older, heavier cams on my trad rack. My goal was to reduce weight and increase flexibility in placement options, particularly in less-than-ideal rock formations.
Upon unboxing the Trango Flex Cam, I was immediately struck by its lightness and the clever bi-color system for easy size identification. The doubled UltraTape sling, offering three clipping lengths, seemed like a genuinely useful feature. Compared to my Black Diamond Camalots and Metolius Master Cams, the Trango Flex Cam appeared to be a significant weight saver. I chose this cam over others primarily for its weight-to-range ratio and the extendable sling, hoping it would offer more placement versatility.
My first impression was excitement. The Trango Flex Cam felt well-built, the action was smooth, and the design seemed thoughtfully executed.
Real-World Testing: Putting Trango Flex Cam to the Test
First Use Experience
I first tested the Trango Flex Cam on a granite multi-pitch climb in the Sierra Nevada. The conditions were dry, but the rock was varied, with cracks ranging from perfectly parallel to flaring and constricted. The Flex Cam was primarily used in less-than-perfect placements, where the flexibility of the head and the extended sling were needed to reduce rope drag.
The Trango Flex Cam performed admirably. The action was smooth and consistent, even in slightly gritty cracks, and the bi-color system made quick size selection a breeze. I initially struggled a bit with the extendable sling, fumbling with it while pumped, but I quickly adapted. The only surprise was how much confidence the lightweight design inspired; it felt secure despite its minimal construction.
Extended Use & Reliability
After several months of regular use, the Trango Flex Cam has held up remarkably well. There are some minor scratches on the lobes from placements in abrasive rock, but the action remains smooth and reliable. I’ve noticed that the UltraTape sling, while durable, does tend to pick up dirt and grime more easily than some other sling materials.
Maintenance is straightforward; a quick rinse with water and a scrub with a soft brush keeps the cam clean and functioning smoothly. Comparing it to my older Camalots, the Trango Flex Cam feels less bomber in wide placements but offers significantly more versatility in tight or irregular cracks. It definitely outperforms my expectations in terms of weight and range.
Breaking Down the Features of Trango Flex Cam
Specifications
The Trango Flex Cam boasts several key specifications that contribute to its overall performance. The size 1 Flex Cam, reviewed here, weighs in at a mere 58 grams. Its construction includes an aluminum head, steel axle and cam lobes, and a nylon/Dyneema UltraTape sling. The length is 8 inches. It is gold in color for the Size 1.
These specifications are crucial for climbers looking to reduce weight without sacrificing strength and range. The aluminum and steel construction strikes a good balance, and the UltraTape sling offers excellent durability. The extendable sling adds versatility to placements.
Performance & Functionality
The Trango Flex Cam excels in its intended role as a lightweight, versatile camming unit. Its smooth action allows for confident placements, and the wide expansion range means it can fit in a variety of crack sizes. The bi-color system simplifies size selection, a welcome feature when you’re pumped and searching for the right piece.
The main strength of the Trango Flex Cam is its weight-to-range ratio, while a slight weakness is its durability in extremely abrasive rock. It meets my expectations for a lightweight cam, providing reliable protection without weighing me down.
Design & Ergonomics
The build quality of the Trango Flex Cam is impressive, especially considering its light weight. The materials feel solid and well-assembled, and the action is smooth and consistent. The cam is comfortable to handle, even with gloves, and the trigger is easy to operate.
The Trango Flex Cam is undeniably user-friendly. The bi-color system simplifies size identification, and the extendable sling adds versatility to placements. There’s virtually no learning curve; even beginners will find it easy to use.
Durability & Maintenance
The Trango Flex Cam is built to last, but like any climbing gear, it requires proper care. The aluminum lobes are susceptible to scratches and minor dents, but the steel axle and trigger mechanism are robust. I expect it to last for many years with regular use and proper maintenance.
Maintenance is simple: rinse with water and scrub with a soft brush to remove dirt and grime. Periodic lubrication of the axle can help maintain smooth action. Repair is generally limited to sling replacement, which can be done by Trango or a qualified gear repair service.
Accessories and Customization Options
The Trango Flex Cam comes with the integrated UltraTape sling, which offers three clipping lengths. There are no other accessories included or officially supported customization options. While you can’t customize the cam itself, you can pair it with different carabiners to optimize clipping and rope management.
The Flex Cam is compatible with most standard climbing carabiners.
Pros and Cons of Trango Flex Cam
Pros
- Lightweight design significantly reduces rack weight.
- Class-leading expansion range increases placement options.
- Full color sizing system simplifies size selection.
- Double length extendable slings offer versatility in placement and reduce rope drag.
- Affordable price point makes it an excellent value.
Cons
- UltraTape sling tends to pick up dirt and grime easily.
- Aluminum lobes are susceptible to scratches in abrasive rock.
Who Should Buy Trango Flex Cam?
The Trango Flex Cam is perfect for trad climbers of all levels who are looking to reduce weight and increase versatility on their rack. It’s also an excellent choice for alpine climbers and mountaineers where every ounce counts. Climbers venturing on longer routes, or those who appreciate a light rack, will appreciate the Flex Cam.
Beginner climbers might find the extendable sling slightly confusing at first, but the benefits outweigh the learning curve. Climbers who primarily climb in wide cracks or require bombproof placements in soft rock might prefer a heavier, more robust cam.
A must-have accessory is a set of lightweight carabiners to complement the Flex Cam’s light weight and a good cam cleaning brush.
Conclusion on Trango Flex Cam
The Trango Flex Cam is a well-designed, lightweight, and versatile camming unit that delivers excellent performance at a reasonable price. Its class-leading expansion range, extendable sling, and color-coded sizing system make it a joy to use.
The price is absolutely justified. It’s difficult to find another cam that offers the same combination of weight, range, and features at this price point.
I would absolutely recommend the Trango Flex Cam to any climber looking to lighten their rack without sacrificing performance. It’s a fantastic piece of gear that will inspire confidence and open up new placement possibilities. So, gear up, get out there, and send it!