C.A.M.P. Dyon Express KS Quickdraw Review

Let’s Dive into C.A.M.P. Dyon Express KS Quickdraw

The C.A.M.P. Dyon Express KS Quickdraw is a high-performance climbing draw designed for sport climbers seeking smooth clipping and minimal weight. These quickdraws combine CAMP’s top-of-the-line Dyon carabiners with a durable, easy-to-grab dogbone. The unique keylock-wiregate hybrid design of the Dyon carabiner is what really sets this quickdraw apart.

I was seeking to upgrade my quickdraw set with lighter, smoother-clipping options to improve my efficiency and reduce fatigue on long sport routes. I was tired of fighting stiff gates and bulky draws. I purchased these hoping to find a noticeable difference in my climbing experience.

Upon unboxing the C.A.M.P. Dyon Express KS Quickdraw, I was immediately impressed by the sleek design and surprisingly light weight. The carabiners felt substantial and well-made. The dogbone material felt durable and easy to grip.

Compared to my older Black Diamond Freewire quickdraws and Petzl Djinn Axess draws, the C.A.M.P. Dyon Express KS Quickdraw stood out due to its significantly lighter weight and the innovative Dyon carabiner gate design. I was choosing between this and the Edelrid Bulletproof Quickdraw, but the Dyon’s unique gate and weight swayed my decision. My first impression was one of excitement; these quickdraws felt like a real upgrade that would boost my confidence and performance on the wall.

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Real-World Testing: Putting C.A.M.P. Dyon Express KS Quickdraw to the Test

First Use Experience

I tested the C.A.M.P. Dyon Express KS Quickdraw at my local sport climbing crag, a limestone cliff with a variety of overhanging and vertical routes. The weather was dry and warm, typical for a summer afternoon. Clipping felt incredibly smooth and effortless compared to my older draws.

The Dyon carabiner’s keylock-wiregate hybrid design made clipping the rope remarkably easy, even when pumped out. I didn’t experience any gate flutter or accidental openings. The dogbone was easy to grab.

There were no immediate issues after the first use. The smooth clipping action and lightweight feel were immediately noticeable improvements. I did note that the wire gate seemed a bit more prone to catching on the rope protector of some older ropes than a standard solid gate.

Extended Use & Reliability

After several months of consistent use, the C.A.M.P. Dyon Express KS Quickdraw continues to perform exceptionally well. The carabiners still clip smoothly and the dogbone shows minimal signs of wear. I use them 2-3 times a week on average.

The anodized finish on the carabiners has held up well to abrasion. I do occasionally clean them with warm water and a mild soap to remove dirt and grime. These quickdraws have outperformed my previous sets in terms of ease of use and weight savings.

Breaking Down the Features of C.A.M.P. Dyon Express KS Quickdraw

Specifications

• Carabiners: Dyon (top and bottom). The Dyon carabiner features a unique keylock-wiregate hybrid design for smooth clipping and high gate strength.
• Dogbone: Variable width polyester webbing with Karstop Evo. The variable width design makes it easy to grab while projecting routes, and the Karstop Evo keeps the rope-end biner properly oriented.
• Available Lengths: 11 cm and 18 cm. This provides options for different climbing styles and preferences.
• Weight: Varies depending on length, but exceptionally lightweight for its strength. The low weight reduces overall pack weight and helps minimize fatigue on long routes.
• Open Gate Strength: 11 kN. This extremely high open gate strength offers a substantial safety margin.

Performance & Functionality

The C.A.M.P. Dyon Express KS Quickdraw excels in its primary function: providing a smooth and reliable connection between the rope and the bolt. The Dyon carabiners clip effortlessly, even in challenging situations. While the wire gate is easy to use, it can sometimes be more prone to accidental opening if pressed against the rock.

The quickdraws meet and often exceed my expectations, providing a noticeable improvement in clipping speed and overall climbing efficiency. The dogbone’s grab-ability really shines on tricky clips.

Design & Ergonomics

The build quality is excellent. The materials feel durable and high-quality, and the carabiners and dogbone are thoughtfully designed. The quickdraws are lightweight and comfortable to use, reducing fatigue during long climbs.

The design is user-friendly and intuitive, with no significant learning curve. The variable width dogbone is easy to grab.

Durability & Maintenance

The C.A.M.P. Dyon Express KS Quickdraw appears to be built to last. The materials and construction are high-quality and show no signs of premature wear. Regular cleaning with warm water and mild soap is sufficient for maintenance.

Accessories and Customization Options

The C.A.M.P. Dyon Express KS Quickdraw is primarily a standalone product and does not have many customizable options. However, the Karstop Evo carabiner retainer can be replaced if needed. The carabiners are compatible with standard-sized ropes and belay devices.

Pros and Cons of C.A.M.P. Dyon Express KS Quickdraw