Tenaya Oasi LV Climbing Shoes Review

Let’s Talk About Tenaya Oasi LV Climbing Shoes

The Tenaya Oasi LV Climbing Shoes are Tenaya’s answer to the high-performance climbing shoe market, specifically tailored for climbers with lower volume feet. This shoe builds upon the award-winning Oasi, offering the same aggressive downturn and camber in a more compact package. I was drawn to these shoes by the promise of a precise, comfortable fit without sacrificing performance on steep, challenging routes.

As a climber with notoriously narrow feet, finding shoes that truly fit has always been a struggle. Many performance shoes feel sloppy or require excessively tight lacing, compromising sensitivity. The Oasi LV promised a solution, and I was eager to see if it delivered.

Unboxing the Oasi LV, I was immediately impressed by the build quality and sleek design. The microfiber upper felt supple yet supportive, and the dual velcro straps with Draxtor Technology suggested a highly adjustable fit. The vibrant color scheme also adds a touch of style to the overall package.

Compared to other low-volume shoes I’ve tried, like the Scarpa Instinct VS Women’s or the La Sportiva Solution Comp, the Oasi LV seemed to strike a better balance between comfort and aggressiveness. I chose the Tenaya because I wanted a shoe that could handle both steep overhangs and delicate edging without feeling like my feet were being squeezed into a vice. My first impression was excitement tempered with cautious optimism – could these finally be the holy grail of low-volume climbing shoes?

Real-World Testing: Putting Tenaya Oasi LV Climbing Shoes to the Test

First Use Experience

I first tested the Tenaya Oasi LV Climbing Shoes at my local climbing gym, which features a variety of steep overhangs, technical slabs, and challenging boulder problems. The initial session focused on getting a feel for the shoe’s sensitivity and edging capabilities. The Vibram XS Grip rubber stuck to everything like glue, inspiring confidence on even the slickest holds.

The downturned shape and aggressive toe felt natural on overhanging routes, allowing me to pull hard without worrying about my feet popping off. However, the real surprise was how well they performed on smaller edges and smears. I immediately noticed how precise the shoe felt, allowing micro adjustments and feeling confident when committing to tenuous holds. After the first session, I felt very impressed and noticed it did take some time to get used to the aggressive nature.

Extended Use & Reliability

After several weeks of consistent use, both indoors and on outdoor rock, the Tenaya Oasi LV Climbing Shoes have proven to be remarkably durable. There are only minor signs of wear and tear on the rand and sole, even after frequent use on rough granite. Cleaning the Oasi LV is a breeze thanks to the synthetic microfiber upper.

A damp cloth is usually all it takes to remove dirt and grime. Compared to my previous experience with leather shoes that required extensive conditioning, the Oasi LV is significantly easier to maintain. I am very impressed with the durability, comfort, and performance of these shoes.

Breaking Down the Features of Tenaya Oasi LV Climbing Shoes

Specifications

The Tenaya Oasi LV Climbing Shoes boast impressive technical specifications designed for high-performance climbing. Here are some key features:

• Material: Microfiber – The synthetic microfiber upper provides a snug fit that molds to the foot while resisting stretching and retaining its shape over time. This ensures consistent performance throughout the shoe’s lifespan.
• Lining: Cotton with TXT treatment – The cotton lining with TXT treatment enhances comfort and wicks away moisture, keeping feet dry and comfortable during long climbing sessions. The TXT treatment helps to reduce odor and bacterial growth.
• Fastener: Velcro, Draxtor PAT system – The dual velcro straps featuring Tenaya’s Draxtor PAT system allow for precise adjustability and a secure, locked-in fit. The Draxtor system enables climbers to fine-tune the tension across the foot for optimal performance and comfort.
• Rubber: Vibram XS Grip 3.5 mm – The 3.5mm Vibram XS Grip rubber outsole provides exceptional grip and sensitivity on a variety of rock surfaces. This compound offers a perfect balance of stickiness and durability for confident edging and smearing.
• Tongue: Lycra, Two-Layer and Bidirectional – The lycra tongue, with a two-layer and bidirectional construction, enhances comfort and breathability while preventing bunching or chafing. This helps ensure a snug, comfortable fit even during intense climbing sessions.
• Insole: 2D multi-layer Stretchtex – The 2D multi-layer Stretchtex insole conforms to the foot’s contours, providing enhanced support and sensitivity. This insole design optimizes power transfer and reduces foot fatigue.
• Weight: 340g – Weighing in at just 340 grams per pair, the Oasi LV is remarkably lightweight, enhancing agility and reducing foot fatigue on long climbs. The low weight contributes to overall climbing efficiency.

These specifications translate directly into enhanced performance and overall user experience. The Microfiber upper conforms closely to the foot, providing excellent sensitivity and precision. The Vibram XS Grip rubber ensures confidence-inspiring grip on various surfaces.

Performance & Functionality

The Tenaya Oasi LV Climbing Shoes excel in both performance and functionality, making them a top choice for experienced climbers. They offer exceptional performance on steep, overhanging routes and technical boulder problems. The aggressive downturn and precise toe allow for confident foot placements and powerful pulls.

However, the Oasi LV also performs surprisingly well on slabs and vertical terrain, offering excellent edging and smearing capabilities. While the shoes are incredibly comfortable, they require a good amount of time to break-in. The Oasi LV meets and often exceeds my expectations.

Design & Ergonomics

The Tenaya Oasi LV Climbing Shoes are thoughtfully designed with high-quality materials. The Microfiber upper is both durable and comfortable, molding to the foot over time. The weight feels balanced and the shoes are easy to get on and off thanks to the Velcro closure.

The shoes have a slight learning curve due to their aggressive downturn, but most experienced climbers will adapt quickly. The shoes are incredibly user-friendly and intuitive.

Durability & Maintenance

The Tenaya Oasi LV Climbing Shoes are built to last, thanks to the high-quality materials and construction. With proper care, they should provide reliable performance for an extended period. Maintaining the Oasi LV is relatively simple. Regular cleaning with a damp cloth will help keep the microfiber upper in good condition.

Resole is recommended when the rubber starts to wear thin. The lifespan of the Tenaya Oasi LV Climbing Shoes depends on usage frequency and climbing style. The shoes are built for professional use and can withstand heavy use.

Accessories and Customization Options

The Tenaya Oasi LV Climbing Shoes do not come with any specific accessories. However, they are compatible with various aftermarket products, such as toe hooks and heel spurs, allowing for personalized performance enhancement. Climbers can also customize the fit by using different types of socks or footbeds to optimize comfort and performance. No matter what you choose, these shoes are perfect for any climber looking for peak performance.

Pros and Cons of Tenaya Oasi LV Climbing Shoes