First Impressions of Scarpa Scarpa Generator Mid Climbing Shoes – Women’s
The Scarpa Scarpa Generator Mid Climbing Shoes – Women’s are marketed as the ultimate shoe for trad climbing, a discipline that demands a blend of support, comfort, and precision. Scarpa, a name synonymous with quality climbing footwear, promises top-tier performance for serious traditional climbs with this offering. Having spent over a decade pushing my limits on rock, I was eager to see if these shoes could live up to the hype and provide the edge I need for big walls and demanding crack climbs.
My interest was piqued by the promise of a shoe specifically designed for the unique challenges of trad climbing. I’ve struggled to find footwear that balances the necessary support for long days on the wall with the sensitivity required for intricate footwork. The Scarpa Scarpa Generator Mid Climbing Shoes – Women’s aim to solve this problem, promising a blend of protection, support, and performance.
Upon unboxing, the Scarpa Scarpa Generator Mid Climbing Shoes – Women’s exuded quality. The caramel-colored Eco Suede leather upper felt supple yet durable, and the mid-height ankle cuff looked supportive without being restrictive. The shoes felt substantial, hinting at the support promised, but not overly heavy.
Compared to my La Sportiva TC Pros, which I’ve used for years, the Scarpa Scarpa Generator Mid Climbing Shoes – Women’s appear to offer a more structured fit and a higher level of ankle protection. My Five Ten Grandstones, primarily crack climbing shoes, lack the edging power these shoes seem to boast. I chose the Scarpa Scarpa Generator Mid Climbing Shoes – Women’s hoping for a shoe that merges the best aspects of both: the crack-climbing comfort of the Grandstones with the edging performance of the TC Pros.
My initial impression was one of cautious optimism. They look like they mean business, but the real test lies on the rock. I was eager to get them out on the granite and see if they could deliver on their promise.
Real-World Testing: Putting Scarpa Scarpa Generator Mid Climbing Shoes – Women’s to the Test
First Use Experience
I first tested the Scarpa Scarpa Generator Mid Climbing Shoes – Women’s on a multi-pitch trad climb at Tahquitz Rock in Southern California. The climb featured a mix of face climbing with small edges and sustained crack sections. This seemed like the ideal proving ground for these shoes.
The conditions were dry and sunny, with temperatures in the mid-70s. The shoes performed admirably on the edging sections, providing a solid and confident platform for my feet. The mid-height ankle provided noticeable protection in the cracks, preventing the usual scrapes and bruises. I was impressed with how little break-in time was needed.
The only initial issue I encountered was a slight pressure point on my ankle after several hours of climbing. However, this subsided as the shoes molded to my feet.
Extended Use & Reliability
After several weeks of consistent use, the Scarpa Scarpa Generator Mid Climbing Shoes – Women’s have proven to be a reliable and high-performing trad climbing shoe. The durability is excellent; the Eco Suede leather shows minimal signs of wear, even after repeated crack climbs. The Vibram XS Edge outsole still has plenty of life.
Cleaning is straightforward; a quick wipe down with a damp cloth is usually sufficient. I’ve applied a leather conditioner a few times to keep the uppers supple. They outperform my previous shoes in sustained edging situations and offer significantly better ankle protection.
These have become my go-to choice for long trad routes with a mix of climbing styles. The Scarpa Scarpa Generator Mid Climbing Shoes – Women’s have quickly become a staple in my climbing pack.
Breaking Down the Features of Scarpa Scarpa Generator Mid Climbing Shoes – Women’s
Specifications
The Scarpa Scarpa Generator Mid Climbing Shoes – Women’s are meticulously crafted with several key specifications that contribute to their exceptional trad climbing performance. The upper is constructed from 2mm Eco Suede, a chrome-free leather that balances durability and comfort. The shoes feature lace-up closure.
The weight is approximately 10.9 oz per shoe, making them relatively lightweight for a supportive mid-cut shoe. The outsole is made of Vibram XS Edge rubber, known for its exceptional edging capabilities and durability. The midsole utilizes Dynamic Flexan material, providing a balance of stiffness and sensitivity.
These specifications are crucial for trad climbing because they directly address the need for support, protection, and precision. The Eco Suede upper offers a comfortable and durable fit, while the Vibram XS Edge outsole provides the necessary grip for small edges. The Dynamic Flexan midsole allows for both sensitivity on the rock and support for long days on the wall.
Performance & Functionality
The Scarpa Scarpa Generator Mid Climbing Shoes – Women’s excel in their intended role as a high-performance trad climbing shoe. They provide exceptional edging power, allowing for precise foot placements on small holds. The mid-height ankle offers excellent protection in cracks, significantly reducing discomfort and the risk of injury.
A minor weakness is the initial stiffness, which requires a short break-in period. Overall, the Scarpa Scarpa Generator Mid Climbing Shoes – Women’s meet and exceed expectations for a trad climbing shoe. The M70 rubber toe rand gives incredible friction.
Design & Ergonomics
The build quality is outstanding, with high-quality materials and meticulous construction. The Eco Suede leather is both durable and comfortable. The shoes fit snugly, providing excellent support without feeling restrictive.
There is a slight learning curve to find the perfect lacing tension, but once dialed in, the fit is exceptional. The PAF technology heel is an added design feature to provide comfort.
Durability & Maintenance
The Scarpa Scarpa Generator Mid Climbing Shoes – Women’s are built to last. The high-quality materials and construction ensure long-term durability, even with frequent use on abrasive rock. Minimal maintenance is required; regular cleaning and occasional leather conditioning are sufficient to keep the shoes in top condition.
The Vibram XS Edge outsole is known for its durability. With proper care, these shoes should last for multiple seasons.
Accessories and Customization Options
The Scarpa Scarpa Generator Mid Climbing Shoes – Women’s do not come with any specific accessories. However, they are compatible with aftermarket footbeds for those who prefer additional arch support or cushioning. The lacing system allows for a customizable fit, accommodating different foot shapes and volumes.
Users can experiment with different sock thicknesses to further fine-tune the fit. While the shoes themselves are not highly customizable, the ability to use aftermarket footbeds and adjust the lacing provides ample opportunity to personalize the fit and feel. The tri-tension active rand enhances the fit.
Pros and Cons of Scarpa Scarpa Generator Mid Climbing Shoes – Women’s
Pros
- Exceptional edging performance due to the Vibram XS Edge outsole.
- Excellent ankle protection for crack climbing.
- Durable and comfortable Eco Suede leather upper.
- Supportive fit for long days on the wall thanks to the Tri-Tension active rand.
- Well-suited for a variety of trad climbing styles.
Cons
- Initial stiffness requires a short break-in period.
- Higher price point compared to some other climbing shoes.
Who Should Buy Scarpa Scarpa Generator Mid Climbing Shoes – Women’s?
The Scarpa Scarpa Generator Mid Climbing Shoes – Women’s are perfect for experienced trad climbers who prioritize support, protection, and edging performance. They are ideal for those who frequently tackle multi-pitch routes with a mix of face climbing and crack climbing. Climbers who value durability and long-lasting performance will also appreciate these shoes.
Beginner climbers may find the stiffness and precise fit challenging to adapt to. Those who primarily boulder or sport climb may prefer softer, more sensitive shoes. Climbers on a tight budget might want to consider more affordable options.
A must-have accessory is a good pair of climbing socks to optimize fit and comfort. Replacing the laces with a more durable option may also be worthwhile for those who frequently climb in abrasive environments.
Conclusion on Scarpa Scarpa Generator Mid Climbing Shoes – Women’s
The Scarpa Scarpa Generator Mid Climbing Shoes – Women’s are a top-tier trad climbing shoe that delivers on its promise of support, protection, and performance. While the initial stiffness and higher price point may be drawbacks for some, the exceptional edging power, ankle protection, and durability make these shoes a worthwhile investment for serious trad climbers. The planet friendly construction is a bonus.
The price is justified by the quality of materials and the performance benefits they provide. I would highly recommend the Scarpa Scarpa Generator Mid Climbing Shoes – Women’s to any experienced trad climber looking for a reliable and high-performing shoe.
If you’re ready to elevate your trad climbing game, the Scarpa Scarpa Generator Mid Climbing Shoes – Women’s are an excellent choice. Gear up, get out there, and conquer those big walls!