Let’s Dive into Metolius Ultralight TCU Free Climbing Set Number 1-4
The Metolius Ultralight TCU Free Climbing Set Number 1-4 is a meticulously crafted collection of camming devices designed for climbers who demand both performance and weight savings. These TCUs, produced by Metolius, represent a significant advancement in climbing gear technology, promising lighter, more versatile, and easier-to-use protection. As a seasoned climber with over a decade of experience, I was eager to put this set to the test and see if it lived up to the hype surrounding its ultralight design and innovative features.
For years, I’ve struggled with carrying heavy racks, especially on multi-pitch climbs where every ounce counts. The promise of a lighter, more compact cam set that doesn’t sacrifice strength or dependability was incredibly appealing. The Metolius Ultralight TCUs stood out due to their Direct Axle Technology (DAT), a feature I’d read about extensively and was keen to experience firsthand.
Upon unboxing the set, my first impression was how remarkably light they felt. The build quality appeared excellent, with clean machining and smooth action. The color-coding on the slings and tubing was intuitive and the cams felt solid and well-constructed.
Compared to my older Black Diamond Camalots and DMM Dragonflies, the Metolius Ultralight TCUs were noticeably lighter and narrower. While I appreciate the bomber feel of the Camalots, their bulk can be a hindrance in tight placements. The Dragons are lighter but I’ve found their durability to be a bit lacking. I picked the Metolius set hoping for the best of both worlds.
I was immediately excited to try these on some challenging routes. The prospect of a lighter rack and more versatile placements sparked a renewed sense of adventure.
Real-World Testing: Putting Metolius Ultralight TCU Free Climbing Set Number 1-4 to the Test
First Use Experience
My first experience with the Metolius Ultralight TCU Free Climbing Set Number 1-4 was at the New River Gorge in West Virginia. I chose a sandstone sport climb with some trad sections. The conditions were dry and sunny, typical for a late fall day.
The TCUs were incredibly easy to place, even in awkward, shallow cracks. The narrow head width allowed for placements where my Camalots would have been too wide. The action was smooth and reliable.
There were no immediate issues or surprises. The Range Finder system proved useful for quickly assessing the placement range, even in less-than-ideal lighting.
Extended Use & Reliability
After several months of use in various climbing areas, including Yosemite Valley and the Shawangunks, the Metolius Ultralight TCU Free Climbing Set Number 1-4 has held up impressively. There are minimal signs of wear and tear, even after repeated use in abrasive granite cracks. The anodized finish on the cam lobes has prevented excessive wear.
Cleaning and maintaining the TCUs is straightforward; a simple brush and occasional lubrication of the axles is all that’s needed. Compared to my previous cams, the Metolius set requires less maintenance and has proven more durable overall. These outperform in terms of weight and placement versatility, making them a valuable addition to my climbing gear.
Breaking Down the Features of Metolius Ultralight TCU Free Climbing Set Number 1-4
Specifications
- The Metolius Ultralight TCU Free Climbing Set Number 1-4 is constructed from 7075-T6 Aluminum. This high-strength alloy ensures durability while maintaining a lightweight profile.
- The entire set weighs in at just 8.3 oz, making it one of the lightest cam sets on the market. This significantly reduces overall rack weight, which is crucial on long or demanding climbs.
- The set includes TCUs in sizes #1 through #4. This provides a versatile range for placement in various crack sizes.
- The Metolius Ultralight TCU Free Climbing Set features a double stem design. This offers enhanced stability and reduces walking.
- It incorporates a single axle design to further reduce weight. This Direct Axle Technology (DAT) is a key feature, allowing for narrower head widths and better placement options.
- The set is classified as camming devices, essential gear for traditional climbing. They provide reliable protection in cracks and constrictions.
Performance & Functionality
The Metolius Ultralight TCU Free Climbing Set Number 1-4 excels in both performance and functionality. The optimized cam angle and wider cam faces provide exceptional grip, even in slippery rock. The Direct Axle Technology allows for more secure placements in shallow or bottoming cracks.
The Metolius Ultralight TCU Free Climbing Set’s strengths lie in its lightweight design, narrow head width, and reliable performance. A potential weakness could be the single axle design, which some climbers may perceive as less redundant than a double axle system. The Metolius Ultralight TCUs definitely meet and often exceed my expectations.
Design & Ergonomics
The Metolius Ultralight TCU Free Climbing Set boasts a well-thought-out design and excellent ergonomics. The build quality is exceptional, with precision machining and durable materials. The light weight enhances comfort during long climbs, reducing fatigue.
The color-coded slings and tubing make size identification quick and easy. The Range Finder system further simplifies placement decisions. There’s no significant learning curve; these cams are intuitive to use, even for climbers new to TCUs.
Durability & Maintenance
With proper care, the Metolius Ultralight TCU Free Climbing Set Number 1-4 should last for years. The high-quality materials and construction ensure durability even under demanding conditions.
Maintenance is simple; cleaning with a brush and lubricating the axles as needed is sufficient to keep them in optimal condition. The CNC machined components are more resistant to wear and tear than stamped or extruded cams.
Accessories and Customization Options
The Metolius Ultralight TCU Free Climbing Set Number 1-4 comes with color-coded sewn slings. These slings are made from a blend of Dyneema and nylon for optimal strength and weight. The cams are not designed for extensive customization; however, the slings can be replaced if needed.
The cams are compatible with standard carabiners and quickdraws from other brands. Some climbers may choose to use extendable quickdraws to minimize rope drag when using these cams.
Pros and Cons of Metolius Ultralight TCU Free Climbing Set Number 1-4
Pros
- Ultralight design: Significantly reduces rack weight for long climbs.
- Narrow head width: Allows for placements in tight, shallow cracks.
- Direct Axle Technology (DAT): Enhances placement options and cam lobe visibility.
- Optimized cam angle and wider cam faces: Provides superior grip and holding power.
- Range Finder system: Simplifies placement decisions and enhances safety.
Cons
- Single axle design: May be perceived as less redundant by some climbers.
- Price: Relatively expensive compared to some other camming devices.
Who Should Buy Metolius Ultralight TCU Free Climbing Set Number 1-4?
The Metolius Ultralight TCU Free Climbing Set Number 1-4 is perfect for experienced trad climbers, alpine climbers, and free climbers who prioritize lightweight gear and versatile placement options. It’s also ideal for those who regularly climb multi-pitch routes where minimizing weight is crucial. Climbers venturing into areas with varied rock types and crack sizes will find this set invaluable.
Beginner climbers might find the higher price point prohibitive. Those who primarily climb in areas with consistently wide cracks might not fully appreciate the benefits of the narrow head width.
A must-have accessory is a set of lightweight carabiners to further reduce overall rack weight. Extendable quickdraws are also recommended for minimizing rope drag.
Conclusion on Metolius Ultralight TCU Free Climbing Set Number 1-4
In summary, the Metolius Ultralight TCU Free Climbing Set Number 1-4 is an outstanding set of camming devices that delivers on its promise of lightweight performance and versatile placement options. The innovative Direct Axle Technology, optimized cam angle, and Range Finder system make this set a valuable addition to any serious climber’s rack.
While the price is higher than some competing cams, the weight savings, enhanced placement options, and overall build quality justify the investment. As someone who values both performance and weight efficiency, I would highly recommend this set to any climber looking to upgrade their protection.
If you’re ready to lighten your load and expand your placement possibilities, the Metolius Ultralight TCU Free Climbing Set Number 1-4 is a worthwhile investment. Go ahead and give your climbing rack the upgrade it deserves.