Let’s Dive into Mad Rock Aviator Belay Devices
The Mad Rock Aviator Belay Devices aim to offer a lightweight and efficient belay experience at an accessible price point. Mad Rock has designed this device with both experienced climbers and newcomers in mind, focusing on ease of use and safety features. What immediately grabs your attention is the unique spring mechanism, intended to prevent rope locking during feeding, a common frustration for belayers.
I’ve been using assisted braking devices for years, but sometimes you need something simpler for top-roping at the gym or when weight is a concern on multi-pitch climbs. I was looking for a durable, lightweight belay device for these scenarios that wouldn’t break the bank. The Aviator seemed to strike a good balance between functionality and cost.
Upon unboxing, the Aviator feels solid despite its light weight, thanks to its forged and machined aircraft aluminum construction. The anodized finish looks clean and durable, and the overall build quality seems reassuringly robust. My initial impression was that this is a well-made piece of kit that should withstand regular use.
Compared to my Petzl Reverso and Black Diamond ATC Guide, the Mad Rock Aviator is significantly lighter and more compact. While the Reverso and ATC Guide offer more versatility, like guide mode belaying and rappelling with two ropes, the Aviator’s simplicity and lightweight design were the key differentiators that swayed my decision. I wasn’t looking for an all-in-one tool, but a specialized device for specific climbing scenarios.
My first impression was surprise at how well-finished it felt for the price. I was excited to try it out at the crag.
Real-World Testing: Putting Mad Rock Aviator Belay Devices to the Test
First Use Experience
I first tested the Mad Rock Aviator Belay Devices at a local crag known for its varied climbing routes and exposed conditions. I was belaying my climbing partner on a 5.10a route with some tricky overhangs. The wind was picking up, making communication a bit challenging.
The Aviator performed admirably even with the gusty wind. Feeding rope was smooth, and the device did indeed resist locking up, which was a pleasant surprise. I found the ergonomic “fin” on the device provided good control when lowering my partner, allowing for modulated speed.
Using the Aviator was intuitive, although I did spend a few minutes familiarizing myself with the spring mechanism before my partner started climbing. The slightly different hand position compared to my other belay devices took a few minutes to adapt to, but once I did, it felt very natural. I noticed how much lighter it was on my harness compared to my other devices.
My only initial issue was that the “fin” became slightly uncomfortable on longer lowers, as it requires a specific hand position to modulate the speed. However, this was easily remedied by adjusting my grip.
Extended Use & Reliability
After several months of regular use, the Mad Rock Aviator Belay Devices has proven to be a reliable and durable piece of kit. I have used it in a variety of settings, from indoor gyms to outdoor crags, and it has consistently performed well. It’s seen maybe 20 days out on the rock.
The anodized aluminum body shows very little sign of wear and tear, even after being dropped on rocky ground multiple times. The spring mechanism is still functioning perfectly, and there is no noticeable deformation or damage to any of the components. The anodizing is surprisingly resistant to scratches and abrasions.
Maintenance is straightforward; I simply wipe it down with a clean cloth after each use to remove any dirt or debris. Occasionally, I might use a mild detergent to clean it more thoroughly, but overall, the Aviator requires very little maintenance. I’ve never felt the need to lubricate the spring or any moving part.
Compared to some of my more expensive belay devices, the Mad Rock Aviator Belay Devices holds its own in terms of performance and durability, especially considering its price point. While it might not have all the bells and whistles of higher-end devices, it provides a reliable and user-friendly belaying experience. It has definitely exceeded my expectations for a budget-friendly option.
Breaking Down the Features of Mad Rock Aviator Belay Devices
Specifications
The Mad Rock Aviator Belay Devices features a forged and machined aircraft aluminum body, offering a balance of lightweight and strength. It weighs in at a mere 3.5 ounces (99g). The rope diameter range is between 8.9mm and 11mm.
This Aviator is CE and UIAA certified, ensuring it meets stringent safety standards. The 8.9-11mm rope compatibility offers flexibility for different climbing styles and rope types. The aluminum construction provides excellent heat dissipation, preventing the device from overheating during long rappels or lowers.
The Aviator is designated as “Last Chance: Yes”, a feature often associated with devices suitable for emergency rappels. It’s designed as a manual catch belay device. As a piece of climbing hardware, it functions for both belaying and rappelling, providing a versatile tool for climbers.
Performance & Functionality
The Mad Rock Aviator Belay Devices performs admirably as a belay device, offering smooth rope feeding and reliable stopping power. The unique spring mechanism effectively prevents the rope from locking up, even when belaying quickly. The ergonomic “fin” allows for precise control when lowering or rappelling.
The Aviator excels in simple top-roping scenarios where ease of use is paramount. However, it’s less suited for lead climbing on wandering routes where frequent rope adjustments are needed. The lack of assisted braking means the belayer must maintain constant attention, which can be tiring on long pitches.
The Aviator meets expectations for a basic, lightweight belay device, but it’s not a replacement for more sophisticated assisted-braking devices in demanding situations. The “fin” design provides a good level of control, but it does require a conscious effort to maintain the correct hand position. The device is not designed for guide mode belaying, which limits its usefulness on multi-pitch climbs.
Design & Ergonomics
The Mad Rock Aviator Belay Devices features a simple and functional design, with smooth edges and a comfortable grip. The anodized aluminum body is both durable and visually appealing. The device is relatively compact, making it easy to store on a harness.
The Aviator is user-friendly, with a short learning curve for experienced belayers. However, beginners may need some instruction on how to properly use the spring mechanism and the “fin” for controlling descent speed. The “fin” design adds to the overall ergonomics of the device, providing a natural and comfortable grip.
Durability & Maintenance
The Mad Rock Aviator Belay Devices is built to last, with a robust aluminum body that can withstand the rigors of regular use. The anodized finish provides good protection against corrosion and abrasion. The spring mechanism is simple and reliable, with no complex parts that are likely to fail.
Maintaining the Aviator is simple; regular cleaning with a cloth and occasional lubrication of the spring mechanism is all that’s required. The device is easily disassembled for thorough cleaning and inspection. With proper care, the Aviator should provide years of reliable service.
Accessories and Customization Options
The Mad Rock Aviator Belay Devices doesn’t come with any specific accessories, but it’s compatible with a wide range of carabiners and ropes from different brands. No customization options are available, but the device is designed to be functional and reliable as is. You can expect that any standard-sized HMS carabiner will work well with the Aviator.
Pros and Cons of Mad Rock Aviator Belay Devices
Pros
- Lightweight and compact for easy carrying on long climbs.
- Smooth rope feeding, preventing locking during belaying.
- Affordable price point makes it accessible to beginners.
- Durable aluminum construction ensures long-lasting performance.
- Ergonomic “fin” design allows for controlled lowering and rappelling.
Cons
- Not an assisted-braking device, requiring constant belayer attention.
- “Fin” can become uncomfortable on long lowers if grip is not adjusted.
Who Should Buy Mad Rock Aviator Belay Devices?
The Mad Rock Aviator Belay Devices is perfect for recreational climbers, gym climbers, and those who prioritize lightweight gear for multi-pitch climbs. It’s ideal for experienced belayers who are comfortable with manual belay devices. The affordability makes it a great option for beginner climbers looking for a reliable and easy-to-use device.
This product is not suitable for climbers who prefer assisted-braking devices or those who regularly lead climb on complex routes that require frequent rope adjustments. It’s also not ideal for multi-pitch climbs where guide mode belaying is required.
A must-have accessory is a high-quality HMS carabiner that fits well with the Aviator’s eye. No specific modifications are necessary; the device is designed to be functional out of the box.
Conclusion on Mad Rock Aviator Belay Devices
The Mad Rock Aviator Belay Devices offers a compelling combination of affordability, lightweight design, and reliable performance. It’s a simple yet effective belay device that’s well-suited for a variety of climbing scenarios. While it lacks some of the advanced features of higher-end devices, it provides a solid and user-friendly belaying experience.
The price is definitely justified, especially considering the Aviator’s durability and smooth operation. It is a quality piece of kit for the money. It’s a great value proposition for climbers who are looking for a budget-friendly option without sacrificing performance.
I would definitely recommend the Mad Rock Aviator Belay Devices to anyone looking for a lightweight, easy-to-use belay device for recreational climbing. If you are in the market for a solid, basic belay device for top-roping and rappelling, the Aviator will not disappoint. Grab one and get climbing!