Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Screw Carabiner Review

Let’s Talk About Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Screw Carabiner

The Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Screw Carabiner isn’t just another piece of metal; it’s a testament to thoughtful design and robust construction. Edelrid, a name synonymous with quality climbing gear, has crafted this carabiner to withstand the rigors of climbing while offering an innovative solution to a common problem: rope wear. Its standout feature, the steel insert at the apex, immediately caught my eye.

Years of guiding and climbing have taught me the importance of reliable gear. I was searching for a robust belay carabiner that could handle the abuse of frequent top-roping sessions without succumbing to premature wear and tear. The Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Screw Carabiner seemed to offer the perfect balance of lightweight design and heavy-duty protection.

Upon unboxing, the immediate impression was one of quality. The carabiner felt solid in hand, yet surprisingly light. The keylock closure system looked clean and snag-free. I’d previously used the Black Diamond GridLock Screwgate and the Petzl Attache, both excellent carabiners, but the Edelrid‘s bulletproof steel insert felt like a game-changer, promising to extend the lifespan significantly.

My first impression was excitement mixed with cautious optimism. The design was innovative, but the true test would be how it performed in real-world conditions. Only time and rigorous use would reveal if the Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Screw Carabiner lived up to its name.

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Real-World Testing: Putting Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Screw Carabiner to the Test

First Use Experience

My first outing with the Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Screw Carabiner was at a local crag known for its abrasive rock. I used it for belaying during a day of top-roping and lead climbing. The conditions were dry, but the rock was gritty, providing ample opportunity for testing the carabiner’s resistance to wear.

The Edelrid performed flawlessly. Clipping ropes was smooth and easy thanks to the keylock gate. The steel insert at the apex provided noticeable protection against rope abrasion. I didn’t need any time to get used to it; the handling was intuitive and comfortable.

After the first day of use, there were no visible signs of wear on the steel insert or the aluminum body of the carabiner. This was a promising start, particularly compared to my previous carabiners, which would often show slight burrs or scratches after a single session on similar rock.

Extended Use & Reliability

After several months of regular use, the Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Screw Carabiner continues to impress. It has been subjected to countless belays, top-rope setups, and anchor configurations in various environments, including sandstone canyons, granite cliffs, and even a few ice-climbing excursions.

The durability of the steel insert is remarkable. It shows minimal wear despite the constant friction from ropes and rappel devices. The aluminum body has held up well, with only minor cosmetic scratches. Maintenance is simple; a quick rinse with water and occasional lubrication of the gate are all that’s needed.

Compared to my previous experiences with other HMS carabiners, the Edelrid is a clear winner in terms of longevity and wear resistance. It has significantly outperformed the competition, proving its worth as a durable and reliable piece of climbing equipment. This carabiner has become a staple in my climbing kit.

Breaking Down the Features of Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Screw Carabiner

Specifications

The Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Screw Carabiner is designed for belaying and rappelling. It features a robust construction, combining lightweight aluminum with a durable steel insert at the apex. Its key specification is the steel insert, which prevents premature wear from rope friction and bolt hangers.

The carabiner’s weight is a very reasonable 88 grams. The gate opening is 21 mm, offering ample space for clipping ropes and webbing. It has a major axis strength of 23 kN, a minor axis strength of 8 kN, and an open gate strength of 7 kN. These specifications ensure it can handle the stresses of climbing and belaying with a high margin of safety.

Performance & Functionality

The Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Screw Carabiner excels in its primary function: belaying. The large HMS shape accommodates a variety of belay devices, providing smooth rope handling and secure locking. The screwgate is easy to operate, even with gloved hands. The keylock closure system prevents snagging on ropes and harnesses, making clipping and unclipping effortless.

The steel insert is the standout feature, providing exceptional resistance to wear and tear. This prolongs the life of the carabiner and ensures consistent performance over time. The only potential improvement would be a slightly faster screwgate mechanism. However, the overall performance is excellent and exceeds expectations.

Design & Ergonomics

The build quality of the Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Screw Carabiner is top-notch. Edelrid has used high-quality aluminum and steel. The carabiner feels solid and well-balanced in hand. The HMS shape is comfortable to hold and easy to manipulate, even in challenging situations.

The design is user-friendly. There is virtually no learning curve. The keylock closure is intuitive, and the screwgate operates smoothly. The carabiner is available in a sleek slate color.

Durability & Maintenance

The Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Screw Carabiner is built to last. The steel insert and robust aluminum body are designed to withstand years of use and abuse. With proper care and maintenance, this carabiner should provide reliable performance for a long time. Maintenance involves regular cleaning to remove dirt and grime. Occasional lubrication of the gate mechanism will keep it operating smoothly.

Accessories and Customization Options

The Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Screw Carabiner doesn’t come with any specific accessories. It is designed to be compatible with a wide range of belay devices and ropes from various brands. There are no specific customization options available for this carabiner. However, its universal design makes it suitable for use with almost any climbing setup.

Pros and Cons of Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Screw Carabiner