C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw Review

Let’s Dive into C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw

The C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw is a meticulously engineered piece of equipment designed for sport climbers pushing their limits. Manufactured by C.A.M.P., this quickdraw distinguishes itself through a combination of innovative carabiner designs and a focus on weight reduction without sacrificing strength. Its key features include the Dyon KeyWire carabiner on the rope end, the Photon straight gate carabiner for the bolt, and a variable-width dogbone equipped with the Karstop Evo retainer.

My quest for a lighter, yet equally strong and reliable quickdraw led me to the C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw. Having struggled with heavier setups on long, demanding sport routes, I was looking for a quickdraw that would minimize weight without compromising safety or ease of use.

Upon unboxing, the first thing that struck me was the incredibly light weight of the C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw. The sleek design and vibrant colors of the carabiners were also immediately appealing, giving the impression of a well-thought-out and high-quality piece of gear. The dogbone felt substantial despite its reduced weight, and the Karstop Evo retainer seemed like a clever and useful addition.

Compared to my previous quickdraws, primarily Black Diamond and Petzl models, the C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw felt significantly lighter and more refined. I chose this model because of the combination of wire gate and keylock technology, which I believed would offer the best of both worlds in terms of smooth clipping and reduced rope wear.

My initial impression was one of excitement and cautious optimism. I was eager to test its performance on the rock, but also aware that weight savings sometimes come at the expense of durability, so I wanted to see how it held up.


Real-World Testing: Putting C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw to the Test

First Use Experience

My first test of the C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw was at a local sport climbing crag known for its steep, overhanging routes. I wanted to see how the quickdraws performed in a challenging environment that demanded quick and efficient clipping.

The C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw performed exceptionally well in dry conditions, and the Photon straight gate carabiner clipped into the bolts smoothly. The Dyon KeyWire carabiner, with its unique gate design, made rope clipping remarkably easy, even in awkward positions. I found that the lighter weight of the quickdraw made a noticeable difference in reducing fatigue on the route.

There were no immediate issues after the first use, but the gate action felt a little stiffer than my older wiregates. This might need some breaking in over time.

Extended Use & Reliability

After several months of consistent use, the C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw has proven to be a reliable and high-performing piece of gear. The initial stiffness of the Dyon KeyWire carabiner’s gate has eased slightly, making for even smoother clipping.

There are no significant signs of wear and tear on the carabiners or dogbone. The anodizing on the carabiners has held up well, and the webbing shows no signs of abrasion or fraying. Cleaning is straightforward, involving a simple rinse with water and mild soap when needed.

The C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw has outperformed my previous quickdraws in terms of weight savings and ease of clipping, especially on the rope end. The durability and robust construction provide the confidence needed on demanding climbs.

Breaking Down the Features of C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw

Specifications

  • Length: The C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw is available in both 11 cm and 18 cm lengths. This allows climbers to choose the length that best suits their needs, whether for shorter routes or to minimize rope drag on wandering lines.

  • Carabiners: The quickdraw features a Photon straight gate carabiner on the bolt end and a Dyon KeyWire carabiner on the rope end. This combination offers smooth clipping into bolts and ropes while reducing weight and preventing gate flutter.

  • Dogbone: The dogbone is constructed from variable-width polyester webbing. This design makes it easy to grab while projecting sport routes, and prevents twisting.

  • Karstop Evo: The quickdraw features a Karstop Evo carabiner retainer on the rope end. This ensures the carabiner stays in the correct orientation for clipping, enhancing safety and efficiency.

  • Open Gate Strength: The Dyon carabiner boasts an impressive open gate strength of 11 kN. This high strength rating increases safety by reducing the likelihood of gate failure under load.

These specifications contribute significantly to the overall performance and user experience. The lighter weight reduces fatigue, the optimized carabiner designs improve clipping efficiency, and the high strength ratings ensure safety and reliability.

Performance & Functionality

The C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw excels in its primary function: facilitating safe and efficient clipping while climbing. Its lightweight design reduces overall gear weight, making it an excellent choice for long routes and demanding projects.

The combination of the Photon straight gate and Dyon KeyWire carabiners provides a seamless clipping experience. The open gate strength of the Dyon is exceptional. The main weakness, if any, is the slightly stiffer gate action of the Dyon initially.

The C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw exceeds expectations in terms of weight savings and rope-end clipping ease. It instills confidence due to its high build quality and well-engineered design.

Design & Ergonomics

The build quality of the C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw is outstanding. The materials used are lightweight and durable, and the overall construction feels robust and well-engineered.

The design is very user-friendly. The quickdraw requires minimal learning curve, and is easy and intuitive to use.

Durability & Maintenance

The C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw is built to last. With proper care and maintenance, it should provide years of reliable service.

Maintenance is straightforward, requiring only occasional cleaning with water and mild soap. Periodic inspection of the webbing and carabiners is recommended to ensure optimal safety.

Accessories and Customization Options

The C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw comes with the Karstop Evo retainer, which is a valuable addition. There are no other accessories included, but there are no customization options available for this product, and none are really necessary. The included design is optimized for performance.

The C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw is compatible with standard climbing ropes and bolts. It can be used with any belay device or harness.

Pros and Cons of C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw

Pros

  • Lightweight design reduces fatigue on long routes.
  • Dyon KeyWire carabiner provides exceptional rope-end clipping.
  • High open gate strength (11 kN) enhances safety.
  • Variable-width dogbone is easy to grab and prevents twisting.
  • Karstop Evo retainer keeps the rope-end carabiner in the optimal position.

Cons

  • The gate action of the Dyon KeyWire carabiner can be slightly stiff initially.
  • The price point is a little higher than some other quickdraws.


Who Should Buy C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw?

The C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw is perfect for sport climbers looking to reduce weight without sacrificing safety or performance. This quickdraw is ideal for those who project challenging routes.

Beginners or those who are just getting into sport climbing may find the price point of the C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw prohibitive. Climbers who prioritize absolute durability over weight savings might prefer a heavier, more robust quickdraw.

No must-have accessories or modifications are needed. The quickdraw is ready to use right out of the box.

Conclusion on C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw

The C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw is an excellent piece of equipment that delivers on its promise of lightweight performance and exceptional clipping ease. The innovative carabiner designs and thoughtful features make it a standout choice for sport climbers who demand the best.

The price is justified by the quality of the materials and the performance benefits offered by this quickdraw. The lightweight design and exceptional clipping ease make it a valuable addition to any serious sport climber’s gear.

I would definitely recommend the C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw to any climber looking to upgrade their quickdraws and improve their performance on the rock. It’s a worthwhile investment that will provide years of reliable service. So get out there and send that project!

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