Beal Booster Unicore Review

First Impressions of Beal Booster Unicore

The Beal Booster Unicore is a single rope designed for experienced climbers seeking a balance between minimal weight and reliable performance. Manufactured by Beal, a trusted name in climbing gear, the Booster Unicore boasts a slim diameter and innovative construction aimed at reducing rope drag and enhancing safety. This rope immediately caught my attention due to its reputation for smooth handling and impressive strength-to-weight ratio.

I needed a rope that would be light enough for long alpine climbs but still durable enough for occasional sport climbing. The Beal Booster Unicore seemed to offer that perfect blend. Upon unboxing, the rope felt incredibly light and supple. The vibrant color and smooth sheath gave an immediate impression of quality.

I considered the Petzl Volta 9.2 and the Edelrid Swift Protect Pro Dry 8.9, both excellent ropes in their own right. The Beal Booster Unicore, however, edged them out due to Beal’s Unicore technology and my positive experiences with Beal ropes in the past. I was immediately excited by its potential for improving my climbing efficiency and safety.


Real-World Testing: Putting Beal Booster Unicore to the Test

First Use Experience

I first tested the Beal Booster Unicore on a multi-pitch trad climb in the Bugaboos, British Columbia. The diverse terrain, including granite slabs and steep cracks, provided an excellent proving ground. The rope’s light weight was immediately noticeable, significantly reducing fatigue on the long approach and during the climb itself.

The rope handled exceptionally well in both dry and slightly damp conditions encountered throughout the day. Its smooth sheath minimized friction when running through protection, making clipping easier and faster. After the first day, there was some fuzzing, but that is expected with thinner ropes.

Extended Use & Reliability

After several months of use, the Beal Booster Unicore has proven to be a reliable and high-performing rope. While the sheath shows some signs of wear, particularly in high-use areas near the ends, the overall durability has been impressive for such a thin rope. I clean it after every climbing trip with rope wash and a soft brush to keep it in good condition.

Compared to my previous rope, a thicker 9.8mm, the Booster Unicore provides a noticeable improvement in handling and reduced drag. While it might not be the ideal choice for heavy-duty top-roping, it excels in situations where weight and smooth handling are paramount. The Beal Booster Unicore continues to impress with its performance.

Breaking Down the Features of Beal Booster Unicore

Specifications

The Beal Booster Unicore boasts impressive specifications. Its weight is 61 g/m, providing a lightweight climbing experience. The impact force is rated at 7.3kN, which is a good balance between impact absorption and rope stiffness.

It can withstand 8 UIAA falls, attesting to its strength and safety. The rope also features UIAA Certified Water Repellent – Golden Dry, offering excellent water resistance. Additional features include DC = Dry Cover, GD = Golden Dry, SC = Safe Control (bi pattern), UC = Unicore process, and Black Limit middle mark. These specifications combine to offer a high-performance rope that is both safe and durable.

Performance & Functionality

The Beal Booster Unicore excels in providing a smooth and efficient climbing experience. Its low impact force provides a more comfortable catch in the event of a fall. The rope’s dry treatment significantly improves its performance in wet conditions, preventing it from becoming heavy and difficult to handle.

The rope’s primary weakness is its sheath durability. It is not a rope to be used on abrasive rock regularly. The rope meets my expectations for alpine climbing and excels in reducing weight and rope drag.

Design & Ergonomics

The Beal Booster Unicore features a sleek and functional design. The rope’s supple feel makes it easy to handle and knot. The bi-pattern design (SC = Safe Control) clearly marks the middle of the rope, simplifying rappels.

The Unicore process bonds the sheath to the core, preventing sheath slippage and enhancing safety. It is lightweight, comfortable to handle, and easy to use.

Durability & Maintenance

While the Beal Booster Unicore is not the most durable rope on the market due to its thin diameter, it is still adequately durable when used appropriately. Regular cleaning with rope wash and proper storage can extend its lifespan. Inspecting the rope regularly for signs of wear and tear is crucial.

The Unicore process enhances the rope’s resistance to abrasion and prevents complete sheath failure. Proper care and maintenance will ensure the Beal Booster Unicore remains a reliable part of my climbing kit.

Accessories and Customization Options

The Beal Booster Unicore does not come with any specific accessories beyond the standard rope packaging. However, it is compatible with a wide range of climbing hardware, including carabiners, belay devices, and quickdraws. Using a belay device designed for thinner ropes is recommended for optimal performance.

The Beal Booster Unicore is compatible with most standard climbing accessories, enhancing its versatility. Adding a rope protector for abrasive sections can extend its lifespan.

Pros and Cons of Beal Booster Unicore

Pros

  • Extremely lightweight, reducing fatigue on long climbs.
  • Excellent handling with smooth clipping and minimal drag.
  • UIAA Certified Water Repellent – Golden Dry performs well in wet conditions.
  • Unicore Technology enhances safety by preventing sheath slippage.
  • Low impact force provides a more comfortable catch.

Cons

  • Sheath durability is lower than thicker ropes, requiring careful use.
  • The price point is higher than entry-level ropes.


Who Should Buy Beal Booster Unicore?

The Beal Booster Unicore is perfect for experienced climbers seeking a lightweight, high-performance rope for alpine climbing, multi-pitch trad climbing, and demanding sport climbing routes. It is ideal for climbers who prioritize weight savings and smooth handling over maximum durability.

Beginner climbers or those who primarily top-rope should skip this product and opt for a thicker, more durable rope. A rope protector is a must-have accessory to extend the lifespan of the Beal Booster Unicore.

Conclusion on Beal Booster Unicore

The Beal Booster Unicore is a top-tier rope that excels in delivering lightweight performance and smooth handling. While its sheath durability requires careful use, the benefits of its low weight and exceptional handling outweigh this concern for experienced climbers. At $255.00, the price is justified by the advanced technology and performance benefits it offers.

I would highly recommend the Beal Booster Unicore to any climber looking to upgrade to a high-performance rope. It’s a worthy investment that will enhance your climbing experience and provide added safety on the wall. Go forth and conquer, with the Beal Booster Unicore by your side!

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