First Impressions of Scarpa Arpia V Climbing Shoes
The Scarpa Arpia V Climbing Shoes promise versatility for both indoor and outdoor climbing, a sweet spot many climbers seek but few shoes truly deliver. Scarpa, a name synonymous with quality in the climbing world, brings their expertise to bear on this model. The Arpia V aims to be comfortable enough for long gym sessions, yet precise enough for challenging outdoor routes.
For years, I’ve struggled to find a single pair of shoes that could handle both the demands of my local climbing gym and the unforgiving granite of the nearby crags. I needed a shoe that could smear on volumes, edge on tiny crystals, and remain comfortable enough to wear for multiple pitches. This seemed like a tall order until I came across the Scarpa Arpia V Climbing Shoes.
Unboxing the Arpia Vs was a pleasing experience. The Shark/Yellow colorway is eye-catching without being garish, and the microfiber upper felt immediately supple and inviting. They felt lightweight in my hands, and the build quality appeared robust, promising durability.
I considered the La Sportiva Tarantulace and the Five Ten Kirigami before settling on the Arpia V. I chose the Scarpa Arpia V Climbing Shoes over the Tarantulace because I wanted a shoe with a more aggressive downturn and toe rubber coverage, and I preferred the double velcro closure system. The Kirigami seemed like a solid beginner shoe, but I needed something with more performance for harder climbs.
My initial impression of the Scarpa Arpia V Climbing Shoes was one of cautious optimism. The promise of versatility is enticing, and I was eager to see if they could live up to the hype.
Real-World Testing: Putting Scarpa Arpia V Climbing Shoes to the Test
First Use Experience
My first outing with the Scarpa Arpia V Climbing Shoes was at my local climbing gym, Movement. I spent the session working on a variety of routes, from steep overhangs to delicate slab climbs. The shoes performed admirably, smearing well on the large volumes and providing enough precision for the smaller footholds.
The Arpia V’s performance in different conditions was notable. Even with sweaty feet after a tough workout, the microfiber upper managed moisture well, maintaining a comfortable fit. I experienced no initial issues during my first session, and the shoes felt comfortable straight out of the box.
Extended Use & Reliability
After several months of consistent use, both indoors and outdoors, the Scarpa Arpia V Climbing Shoes have proven to be remarkably durable. I’ve used them on everything from rough granite to polished limestone, and they’ve held up admirably.
While there is some visible wear on the Vibram XS Grip2 outsole, it is minimal considering the amount of climbing I’ve done. The M50 Rubber Toe rand is showing some signs of wear from toe-hooking, but there are no signs of delamination or damage. These shoes have been easy to maintain; a quick wipe down with a damp cloth after each session is all that’s needed. The durability and performance of the Scarpa Arpia V Climbing Shoes has exceeded my expectations.
Breaking Down the Features of Scarpa Arpia V Climbing Shoes
Specifications
The Scarpa Arpia V Climbing Shoes boast a range of specifications designed to enhance performance and comfort. These shoes feature a Soft Touch Microfiber upper that provides immediate comfort and increased sensitivity.
- The Arpia V utilizes M50 Rubber Toe: Scarpa’s stickiest rubber covers a large portion of the toe box providing high friction and extra comfort.
- The Outsole utilizes Vibram XS Grip2 which provides great combination of support and friction.
- The closure: Dual opposing Velcro straps (wider strap on top) provide a large secure closure while a stretchy, breathable tongue increases comfort and fit.
- The Rand: TA-Tension provides the benefit of a dynamic tension system without adding an extra layer under the key toe tips position.
These specifications matter because they directly translate to a better climbing experience. The Soft Touch Microfiber upper ensures a comfortable fit, allowing for longer climbing sessions without discomfort. The Vibram XS Grip2 outsole is known for its exceptional grip, providing confidence on even the smallest of holds.
Performance & Functionality
The Scarpa Arpia V Climbing Shoes perform exceptionally well in a variety of climbing styles. They excel at smearing, edging, and heel hooking.
The shoe’s slight downturn and asymmetrical shape provide a good balance of sensitivity and power. The Arpia V meets and exceeds expectations, offering a high level of performance for both indoor and outdoor climbing.
Design & Ergonomics
The Scarpa Arpia V Climbing Shoes are well-designed and ergonomically sound. The Soft Touch Microfiber upper conforms to the foot, providing a snug and comfortable fit.
The shoe’s asymmetrical shape and slight downturn allow for precise foot placement and powerful edging. While there is a slight learning curve for those new to downturned shoes, the Arpia V is generally user-friendly and comfortable.
Durability & Maintenance
The Scarpa Arpia V Climbing Shoes are built to last, constructed with high-quality materials and durable construction techniques. The Vibram XS Grip2 outsole is known for its durability, and the M50 Rubber Toe rand provides extra protection in high-wear areas.
These shoes are relatively easy to maintain. Regularly cleaning the outsole with a brush and water will help to maintain its grip.
Accessories and Customization Options
The Scarpa Arpia V Climbing Shoes do not come with any specific accessories, but there are several customization options available. Many climbers choose to add aftermarket footbeds for increased comfort or to fine-tune the fit of the shoe.
The Arpia V is compatible with most standard climbing shoe accessories, such as toe pads and heel cups.
Pros and Cons of Scarpa Arpia V Climbing Shoes
Pros
- Versatile performance for both indoor and outdoor climbing.
- Comfortable Soft Touch Microfiber upper.
- Excellent grip from the Vibram XS Grip2 outsole.
- Durable construction.
- Secure fit with dual Velcro straps.
Cons
- The Shark/Yellow colorway may not appeal to everyone.
- Break-in period might be needed for climbers with wider feet.
Who Should Buy Scarpa Arpia V Climbing Shoes?
The Scarpa Arpia V Climbing Shoes are perfect for intermediate to advanced climbers looking for a versatile shoe that can handle both indoor and outdoor climbing. These shoes are also a good choice for climbers who prioritize comfort and performance.
Beginner climbers may find the slight downturn and asymmetrical shape of the Arpia V challenging at first. Climbers with very wide feet might find the shoe too narrow, requiring a break in period or a different model altogether. A climbing brush and climbing chalk are must-have accessories for maximizing the performance of these shoes.
Conclusion on Scarpa Arpia V Climbing Shoes
The Scarpa Arpia V Climbing Shoes are an excellent choice for climbers seeking a versatile and high-performing shoe. The Arpia V offers a compelling value proposition, delivering a combination of comfort, performance, and durability.
I would personally recommend the Scarpa Arpia V Climbing Shoes to any climber looking for a reliable and versatile all-around shoe. If you are looking for a shoe that can handle everything from gym sessions to outdoor sends, then the Scarpa Arpia V Climbing Shoes are definitely worth considering. Head to your local climbing shop and try on a pair today!