DMM Aether Quickdraw Review

First Impressions of DMM Aether Quickdraw

The DMM Aether Quickdraw is immediately striking for its commitment to lightweight performance without sacrificing security. Made by DMM, a brand synonymous with quality climbing gear, the Aether promises to be a go-to for climbers prioritizing speed and agility in alpine and trad settings. It’s designed for those moments when every gram counts, but failure isn’t an option.

My climbing partners and I frequently tackle multi-pitch trad routes in the Adirondacks, where shedding weight is crucial for endurance and efficiency. Often, we found ourselves using heavier quickdraws which, while durable, added unnecessary strain on long approaches and sustained climbs. The promise of a lighter, yet equally secure option, is what immediately drew me to the DMM Aether Quickdraw.

Upon unboxing, the immediate impression is one of meticulous craftsmanship. The DMM Aether Quickdraw feels incredibly light, yet the carabiners and sling exhibit a robust build quality. Its turquoise and matt grey color scheme gives it a modern, professional look, and the feel of the wiregates is incredibly smooth.

Having used Black Diamond Oz quickdraws and Petzl Ange Finesse draws in the past, the DMM Aether Quickdraw immediately felt different. While both those options prioritize lightness, the Aether felt more substantial. It gave a greater sense of security, perhaps due to the clean nose design, which seemed less prone to snagging. I chose the DMM Aether Quickdraw over similar products based on DMM’s reputation for bombproof gear and the Aether’s focus on security alongside its weight-saving design.

Initially, I was excited by the potential weight savings, but I also harbored some reservations about the durability of such a lightweight system. I wondered how it would stand up to the harsh granite of the Gunks, and whether the wiregates would feel as secure as solid gates. Despite these concerns, the DMM Aether Quickdraw piqued my interest with its promise of a high-performance, lightweight option for demanding climbs.

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Real-World Testing: Putting DMM Aether Quickdraw to the Test

First Use Experience

The DMM Aether Quickdraw made its debut on a multi-pitch trad route on a sunny day in the Shawangunks. I immediately noticed the difference in weight compared to my standard quickdraws while racking up at the base. Clipping was smooth and easy, the wiregates offering a crisp action, and I appreciated the clean nose design, which minimized snagging.

The dry rock provided ideal conditions for testing, and the DMM Aether Quickdraw performed flawlessly. The weight savings translated directly to less fatigue on the initial pitches, and I felt more agile moving between placements. There were no issues with the carabiners or sling and the contrasting carabiner colors helped avoid rope/gear confusion.

After the first pitch, there were no surprises or issues. The quickdraw felt secure and reliable, and the benefits of the reduced weight became even more apparent. This was a significant advantage compared to lugging heavier draws up similar routes.

Extended Use & Reliability

After several months of use on various rock types and in different conditions, the DMM Aether Quickdraw has proven to be remarkably durable. The 11mm Dynatec sling shows minimal signs of wear, even after repeated abrasion against rough rock surfaces. The carabiners retain their smooth action and the wiregates remain crisp and responsive.

Despite exposure to dirt, chalk, and even a bit of rain, cleaning the DMM Aether Quickdraw has been simple. A quick rinse with water and a brush removes most debris, and the carabiners can be lubricated occasionally to maintain optimal performance. The materials seem resistant to degradation, showcasing the quality of construction.

Compared to my previous experiences with lighter-weight quickdraws, the DMM Aether Quickdraw has been a pleasant surprise. Where some lighter options feel flimsy or fragile, the Aether strikes a superb balance between weight savings and durability. It outperforms my expectations and remains a reliable component of my climbing kit.

Breaking Down the Features of DMM Aether Quickdraw

Specifications

The DMM Aether Quickdraw boasts impressive specifications for such a lightweight piece of gear. Its key specs include:

• Super-light carabiners mounted on an 11mm Dynatec sling. The result is a quickdraw that minimizes weight.
• DMM uses wire gate carabiners for maximum weight savings and reduced risk of freezing in winter conditions. They are appropriate for trad, alpine and winter climbing, where minimal weight is desirable.
• The carabiners feature a fully clean nose for extra security, preventing snagging on gear, ropes, and slings. The clean nose also reduces accidental gate opening.
• An I-Beam construction provides an optimum strength-to-weight ratio. DMM uses hot forging to create complex shapes that improve functionality without adding weight.
• The contrasting carabiner colors allow climbers to identify rope and gear ends of the quickdraw. This avoids contact with wires and bolts that could harm ropes.
• The DMM Aether Quickdraw’s strengths are 21kN major axis, 8kN open gate. These provide reassurance when pushing limits.
• It’s also available as alpine quickdraws with an 8mm 60cm Dynatec sling.
• It’s available in a Turquoise/Matt Grey color scheme.

These specifications matter because they directly impact the user’s performance and safety. The lightweight design reduces fatigue and increases efficiency on long climbs. The strength ratings provide peace of mind when trusting your life to the gear.

Performance & Functionality

The DMM Aether Quickdraw excels in its primary function: securely and efficiently connecting the rope to protection. The carabiners clip smoothly and easily, even in awkward positions, and the wiregates offer a reliable closure. The 11mm Dynatec sling provides a comfortable grip for extending placements.

The DMM Aether Quickdraw’s strengths lie in its low weight, high strength, and user-friendly design. A minor weakness might be the slightly smaller gate opening compared to some larger carabiners, but this is a trade-off for the weight savings. It definitely meets and exceeds my expectations for a lightweight quickdraw.

Design & Ergonomics

The build quality of the DMM Aether Quickdraw is exceptional, reflecting DMM’s commitment to quality and durability. The materials used are high-grade and the construction is solid. Its light weight improves comfort in hand.

The DMM Aether Quickdraw is incredibly user-friendly, with no learning curve. The carabiners are intuitive to clip and unclip, and the sling is easy to manipulate. This makes it ideal for climbers of all skill levels.

Durability & Maintenance

The DMM Aether Quickdraw is built to last, with durable materials and robust construction. With proper care and maintenance, it should provide years of reliable service. Cleaning is straightforward and the carabiners can be lubricated as needed.

Accessories and Customization Options

The DMM Aether Quickdraw doesn’t come with a wide range of accessories, as it’s designed as a complete unit. However, the carabiners can be replaced if desired, and the sling can be swapped out for a longer or shorter version. The DMM Aether Quickdraw is compatible with most standard climbing ropes and protection devices.

Pros and Cons of DMM Aether Quickdraw

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Who Should Buy DMM Aether Quickdraw?

The DMM Aether Quickdraw is perfect for alpine climbers, trad climbers, and anyone prioritizing weight savings without sacrificing security. It’s also a great choice for multi-pitch climbers, mountaineers, and fast-and-light adventurers. Climbers who primarily sport climb or prioritize budget over weight savings might want to consider other options.

A must-have accessory would be a carabiner maintenance kit, including lubricant and a brush for cleaning. This will help extend the life of the carabiners and maintain smooth operation.

Conclusion on DMM Aether Quickdraw

The DMM Aether Quickdraw is a top-tier piece of climbing gear that delivers on its promises of lightweight performance and robust security. It’s well-designed, durable, and easy to use, making it an excellent choice for climbers of all skill levels. The price is justified by the quality of construction and the performance benefits it provides.

I would highly recommend the DMM Aether Quickdraw to anyone looking to shed weight without compromising safety. If you are an experienced climber looking to upgrade your rack, or a beginner looking for a reliable and lightweight option, the DMM Aether Quickdraw is worth the investment. Take your climbing to new heights – experience the difference the DMM Aether Quickdraw can make!