Let’s Talk About DMM Phantom Alpine Quickdraw
The DMM Phantom Alpine Quickdraw is a featherweight piece of climbing gear designed for the weight-conscious alpinist or trad climber. Manufactured by DMM, a company renowned for its high-quality climbing hardware, the Phantom quickdraw combines two ultralight Phantom carabiners with a strong and durable Dynatec Dyneema sling. This quickdraw promises to minimize weight on long routes without compromising safety or functionality, making it an intriguing option for those looking to shave grams without sacrificing performance.
What led me to the DMM Phantom Alpine Quickdraw was a recent multi-pitch project I was planning in the Bugaboos. I needed to reduce pack weight without compromising the number of draws I carried.
Unboxing the DMM Phantom Alpine Quickdraw revealed a surprisingly light piece of kit. The carabiners felt almost impossibly light, yet the overall construction felt solid and well-made, with the sling adding a touch of reassuring robustness.
Compared to my usual Petzl Spirit Express quickdraws and Black Diamond Oz quickdraws, the DMM Phantom Alpine Quickdraw is noticeably lighter. I picked the DMM Phantom Alpine Quickdraw over others to save weight for long days on the wall.
My first impression was excitement mixed with a touch of skepticism. Could something this light really hold up to the rigors of alpine climbing?
Real-World Testing: Putting DMM Phantom Alpine Quickdraw to the Test
First Use Experience
I tested the DMM Phantom Alpine Quickdraw on a multi-pitch trad climb in Squamish, BC. The route involved a mix of crack climbing and face climbing, with plenty of opportunities to place gear and clip the draws.
The weather was mild and dry, providing ideal conditions for testing the DMM Phantom Alpine Quickdraw. Clipping felt smooth, even with gloved hands, and the lightweight design made a noticeable difference on my harness.
I immediately appreciated the ease of clipping. The carabiner gate action was smooth and snag-free, even on slightly awkwardly placed protection.
After the first climb, I was impressed by the performance. No issues arose and the weight savings was notable.
Extended Use & Reliability
After several weeks of consistent use, the DMM Phantom Alpine Quickdraw has held up remarkably well. It has seen multiple days of cragging, trad climbing, and even a few shorter alpine ascents.
So far, there are minimal signs of wear and tear. The carabiners still look almost new, and the Dyneema sling shows no signs of abrasion.
Maintenance has been minimal. I simply wipe the carabiners down with a damp cloth after each use and occasionally inspect the sling for any damage.
The DMM Phantom Alpine Quickdraw has exceeded my expectations. They are lightweight and have become a favorite.
Breaking Down the Features of DMM Phantom Alpine Quickdraw
Specifications
The DMM Phantom Alpine Quickdraw boasts impressive specifications for its weight class. It features two DMM Phantom carabiners constructed with I-beam technology for optimal strength-to-weight ratio.
- Weight: The entire quickdraw weighs in at a mere 76 grams, making it one of the lightest alpine draws on the market.
- Length: The Dynatec Dyneema sling is 60 cm long, providing ample reach for reducing rope drag.
- Open Gate Strength: The carabiners have an open gate strength of 9 kN.
- Material: The carabiners are made with I-beam construction, and the sling uses Dynatec Dyneema.
These specifications are important because they directly translate to performance and safety. The low weight reduces fatigue on long climbs, while the high strength ensures the quickdraw can withstand substantial forces in the event of a fall.
Performance & Functionality
The DMM Phantom Alpine Quickdraw performs admirably in its intended role. It’s designed for reducing weight on long trad or alpine routes, and it excels in that area.
- The carabiners clip smoothly and securely.
- The Dyneema sling is strong and durable.
The main strength is its weight. The weakness is that it is more expensive than heavier alternatives.
The DMM Phantom Alpine Quickdraw meets and exceeds expectations. It is a light and very functional draw.
Design & Ergonomics
The design of the DMM Phantom Alpine Quickdraw is focused on minimalism and functionality. The I-beam construction of the carabiners allows for a significant reduction in weight without sacrificing strength.
The build quality is excellent, and the materials feel durable and well-chosen. The quickdraw feels comfortable to use, even with gloves.
There is no learning curve. Clipping is straightforward.
Durability & Maintenance
The DMM Phantom Alpine Quickdraw is designed to be durable, but its lightweight construction means it might not be as bombproof as heavier options.
Maintenance is simple. Regular inspection and cleaning are all that’s required.
Accessories and Customization Options
The DMM Phantom Alpine Quickdraw is a complete system, so there aren’t many accessories or customization options. However, you could replace the sling if needed.
The carabiners are compatible with a wide range of ropes and belay devices.
Pros and Cons of DMM Phantom Alpine Quickdraw
Pros
- Extremely Lightweight: Significantly reduces weight on your rack, ideal for long routes.
- Smooth Clipping: The carabiner gate action is smooth and snag-free.
- Durable Construction: Despite its light weight, the quickdraw feels robust and well-made.
- High-Quality Materials: DMM is known for using top-notch materials in their climbing gear.
- Reduced Rope Drag: The 60 cm Dynatec Dyneema sling helps to minimize rope drag.
Cons
- Price: Lighter equipment comes at a price.
- Less Durable Than Heavier Options: While durable enough for its intended use, it may not be as bombproof as heavier quickdraws.
Who Should Buy DMM Phantom Alpine Quickdraw?
The DMM Phantom Alpine Quickdraw is perfect for:
- Alpine climbers: Climbers who need to save weight on long approaches and multi-pitch routes.
- Trad climbers: Climbers who carry a lot of gear and want to reduce the overall weight of their rack.
- Weight-conscious climbers: Climbers who are obsessed with minimizing every gram of weight.
This product might not be ideal for:
- Beginner climbers: The higher price point may not be justified for beginners.
- Climbers who prioritize durability above all else: Heavier quickdraws will be more durable.
A must-have accessory is a good gear sling to carry the quickdraws on.
Conclusion on DMM Phantom Alpine Quickdraw
The DMM Phantom Alpine Quickdraw is an excellent choice for climbers who prioritize weight savings without sacrificing performance. It’s incredibly light, clips smoothly, and is made with high-quality materials.
The price is justified for serious alpinists and trad climbers who will appreciate the weight reduction.
I would personally recommend the DMM Phantom Alpine Quickdraw to anyone looking to lighten their load on long climbs. It is a great product.
If you’re ready to take your climbing to the next level and shave precious grams off your rack, the DMM Phantom Alpine Quickdraw is a worthwhile investment.