Let’s Talk About Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double
The Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double isn’t just another piece of big wall gear; it’s a lifeline for climbers pushing the limits of human endurance on multi-day ascents. This fly, designed to create a weatherproof haven over a portaledge, promises to transform exposed bivies into relatively comfortable experiences. Metolius, a trusted name in climbing equipment, built this fly to withstand the rigors of extended time on the wall.
My quest for the Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double began with a desire to make multi-day wall climbs less punishing. Too many nights spent shivering in a bivy sack, exposed to wind and unexpected rain, led me to seek a reliable shelter solution. The promise of a bomber-proof, weather-resistant fly designed specifically for portaledges was incredibly appealing.
Upon unboxing, the immediate impression was one of robust durability. The Durathane reinforced corners and heavy-duty fabric screamed quality. The weight, though noticeable, felt appropriate considering the materials and intended use. It felt well-constructed, clearly designed with serious wall time in mind.
Comparing the Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double to the Black Diamond Single Portaledge Fly and the Fish Products Guide Fly, the Metolius stood out due to its heavier-duty construction and focus on complete weather protection. While the others are lighter, the Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double seems built for the most demanding conditions. I chose the Metolius fly because I prioritized durability and weather resistance above all else.
My initial reaction was excitement tempered with respect. It was a burly piece of gear, and I knew I’d be relying on it to keep me safe and dry high above the ground. I was eager to put it to the test and see if it lived up to the Metolius reputation.
Real-World Testing: Putting Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double to the Test
First Use Experience
My first experience with the Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double was during a four-day ascent of the Zodiac on El Capitan in Yosemite. The weather forecast predicted variable conditions, making a reliable fly essential. The Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double was deployed on the second night.
During our climb on El Capitan, we encountered rain. While other parties struggled with makeshift solutions, the Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double created a dry and secure environment. The aluminum storm pole provided ample headroom, enhancing the overall comfort significantly.
Setting up the fly initially required a little coordination to properly attach it to the portaledge and clip it into the anchor point. Once we understood the system, subsequent setups were quick and straightforward. The integrated stuff sack proved to be a useful feature for packing and unpacking on a crowded ledge.
The only surprise was the condensation that built up inside the fly overnight. While this is a common issue with single-wall shelters, it highlighted the importance of good ventilation, even within the enclosed space.
Extended Use & Reliability
After several multi-day climbs, including a particularly exposed ascent of Half Dome’s Regular Northwest Face, the Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double has proven to be an exceptionally reliable piece of gear. It’s become a staple on any route where we expect potentially challenging weather.
The Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double shows minimal signs of wear and tear. The Durathane reinforced corners remain pristine, and the fabric has held up well against abrasion from the granite walls. The hot-taped seams have remained waterproof.
Cleaning the Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double is relatively easy. A simple wipe-down with a damp cloth is usually sufficient to remove dirt and grime. It’s important to ensure it’s completely dry before storing to prevent mildew.
Having used lighter, less robust portaledge flies in the past, the difference in performance is night and day. The Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double offers a superior level of weather protection and durability, making it well worth the added weight for serious wall climbers.
Breaking Down the Features of Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double
Specifications
The Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double weighs 5 lbs. 7 oz. (2.47 kg). It’s designed to fit double portaledges.
The Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double is Apricot in color. Its main body is constructed from durable polyurethane-coated 420d Oxford nylon with hot taped seams. A Durathane haul bag material is used in the top cap and reinforced corners.
The aircraft-quality 6061-T6 aluminum clip-in point provides a secure and reliable anchor. There’s also an aluminum storm pole included to increase interior space. A heavy-duty, Jr. Ballistics abrasion skirt protects the fly from wall abrasion.
These specifications translate directly into real-world performance. The weight, while not the lightest, ensures durability and weather resistance. The materials are specifically chosen to withstand the harsh conditions of big wall climbing. The aluminum clip-in point offers peace of mind, knowing that the fly is securely anchored.
Performance & Functionality
The Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double excels at its primary function: providing a weatherproof shelter over a portaledge. It offers excellent protection from rain, wind, and snow, creating a more comfortable and safer environment for multi-day ascents. Its abrasion skirt protects the fly from damage, which leads to a longer lifespan.
The fly’s strengths lie in its robust construction, excellent weather protection, and ease of use. The main area for improvement is condensation management. While not a design flaw, climbers should be aware of this issue and take steps to mitigate it.
The Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double meets and exceeds expectations for a high-quality portaledge fly. It delivers on its promise of bomber protection and enhances the overall big wall experience.
Design & Ergonomics
The build quality of the Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double is exceptional. The materials used are top-notch, and the construction is meticulous. Despite its robustness, it is also easy to pack.
The fly is user-friendly, with a straightforward design that is easy to set up and take down. The integrated stuff sack simplifies packing. The aluminum storm pole is a welcome addition.
Durability & Maintenance
The Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double is built to last. With proper care, it should provide years of reliable service. The robust materials and reinforced construction ensure that it can withstand the rigors of big wall climbing.
Maintaining the fly is simple. Regular cleaning and proper storage will help extend its lifespan. Any minor repairs, such as patching small holes, can be easily done with appropriate repair materials.
Accessories and Customization Options
The Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double comes with an integrated compression stuff sack and an aluminum storm pole. These included accessories are well-suited and helpful.
There are no specific customization options for the Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double. However, it is compatible with most standard double portaledges.
Pros and Cons of Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double
Pros
- Exceptional Weather Protection: The Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double provides outstanding protection from rain, wind, and snow. This makes it essential for multi-day wall climbs.
- Unmatched Durability: Constructed with robust materials and reinforced corners, the Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double is built to withstand the rigors of big wall climbing.
- Secure and Reliable: The aircraft-quality 6061-T6 aluminum clip-in point ensures a secure anchor, providing peace of mind in exposed conditions.
- Easy to Use: The straightforward design and integrated stuff sack make setup and packing relatively simple, even on a crowded ledge.
- Increased Comfort: The aluminum storm pole provides ample headroom, enhancing the overall comfort within the fly.
Cons
- Condensation: Like many single-wall shelters, condensation can build up inside the fly overnight. Ventilation is crucial.
- Weight: At 5 lbs. 7 oz., it is not the lightest option available, which may be a concern for weight-conscious climbers.
Who Should Buy Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double?
The Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double is perfect for serious big wall climbers who prioritize weather protection and durability above all else. Climbers tackling multi-day ascents in unpredictable or challenging weather conditions will greatly benefit from its bomber construction and reliable performance.
Climbers looking for the absolute lightest option should skip this product and consider a lighter-weight fly, potentially sacrificing some durability and weather resistance.
Must-have accessories include a small fan to help circulate air and minimize condensation, as well as a reliable headlamp for navigating inside the fly at night.
Conclusion on Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double
The Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double is a top-tier piece of big wall equipment that delivers on its promise of providing a secure and weatherproof shelter in demanding conditions. Its robust construction, excellent weather protection, and ease of use make it an invaluable asset for serious climbers.
While the price tag of $374.49 is significant, the value proposition is clear. The Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double is an investment in safety, comfort, and peace of mind. For climbers who spend multiple days on the wall, the added protection and durability are well worth the cost.
I would wholeheartedly recommend the Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double to any climber serious about big wall ascents. It is a reliable and well-designed product that will undoubtedly enhance their climbing experience. Don’t let unpredictable weather ruin your climb. Invest in the Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double and experience the peace of mind that comes with knowing you’re prepared for anything.