Metolius Ultralight Power Cams Review

Let’s Dive into Metolius Ultralight Power Cams

The Metolius Ultralight Power Cams represent a significant evolution in climbing protection. Crafted by Metolius, a name synonymous with quality and innovation in the climbing world, these cams promise to deliver a lightweight yet robust solution for climbers of all levels.

My journey toward these cams began with a persistent need for lighter gear. After years of hauling a rack laden with traditional cams, I started experiencing shoulder fatigue on long multi-pitch climbs. I needed something that wouldn’t compromise strength and reliability, but would significantly reduce the overall weight.

Upon unboxing, the immediate impression was one of refined engineering. The Metolius Ultralight Power Cams felt remarkably light in hand, yet the machined aluminum exuded a sense of durability. The color-coded slings and tubing made size identification simple, a detail that speaks to the thoughtful design.

I had been considering Black Diamond Camalots and Wild Country Helium Friends. Ultimately, I chose the Metolius Ultralight Power Cams due to their Direct Axle Technology (DAT), which promised superior placement options in tricky, shallow cracks. I was excited to see if the claims of lighter weight and increased versatility held up in the field.

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Real-World Testing: Putting Metolius Ultralight Power Cams to the Test

First Use Experience

My first experience with the Metolius Ultralight Power Cams was on a granite trad climb in Yosemite Valley. I wanted to test them on a variety of placements.

They performed exceptionally well, even in the sometimes-awkward placements characteristic of Yosemite granite. The DAT truly made a difference; placing cams in shallow and bottoming cracks felt more secure and less fiddly than with my older cams. The cams were easy to place, and I was able to get the placements that I needed.

Extended Use & Reliability

After several months of consistent use, the Metolius Ultralight Power Cams continue to impress. The anodized aluminum shows minimal wear, even after numerous placements and removals on abrasive rock.

Cleaning and maintaining the cams is straightforward. A quick rinse with water and occasional lubrication of the axles is all that’s needed to keep them functioning smoothly. They easily outperform my previous generation of cams, offering a noticeable weight reduction and improved placement versatility.

Breaking Down the Features of Metolius Ultralight Power Cams

Specifications

• Manufacturer: Metolius.
• Fabric/Material: Primarily 7075-T6 aluminum (sizes #00-#6) and 6061-T6 aluminum (sizes #7 and #8). This ensures a high strength-to-weight ratio and long-term durability.
• Climbing Hardware Type: Camming Devices.
• Direct Axle Technology (DAT): Allows for more placement options in shallow, narrow, or bottoming placements. DAT improves cam lobe visibility, especially in small sizes, making tricky placements easier to manage.
• 13 mm (0.51″) Monster Sling webbing: Made from a blend of 36% Dyneema and 64% nylon. This provides a good balance of strength and flexibility.
• Range Finder: Tells you at a glance if you’ve chosen the right size cam for the placement.
• Optimized cam angle: Designed for more outward force, providing increased holding power.
• Wider cam faces: Offer more grip on the rock. This enhances stability and minimizes walking.
• U-shaped body: For greater durability and unparalleled control during placement and retraction. This design contributes to the cam’s overall robustness.
• Machined cam stops: Prevent over-camming and extend the lifespan of the unit.
• Color-coded sewn slings and tubing: For easier size identification. This streamlines gear selection on the wall.
• CNC machined: This allows for much greater precision than stamped or extruded cams. The precision provides better reliability.
• CE/UIAA certified: Ensures the cams meet stringent safety standards.
• Hand built, inspected and individually tested: To ½ its rated strength in Bend, Oregon. This reinforces Metolius‘ commitment to quality and reliability.

Performance & Functionality

The Metolius Ultralight Power Cams perform exceptionally well. Their combination of light weight, secure placements, and smooth action make them a joy to use on the wall.

The DAT provides greater placement options, especially in tricky, shallow cracks. The optimized cam angle delivers increased holding power, and the wider cam faces offer enhanced grip. There isn’t much to improve on, and the overall design exceeded my expectations.

Design & Ergonomics

The build quality is excellent, with precision-machined aluminum components. The cams feel solid and well-constructed, inspiring confidence in their durability.

The Metolius Ultralight Power Cams are user-friendly, even for climbers who are new to trad climbing. The color-coded slings and tubing make size selection easy.

Durability & Maintenance

Based on my experience thus far, the Metolius Ultralight Power Cams are built to last. Regular cleaning and lubrication are sufficient to keep them in good working order.

Accessories and Customization Options

The Metolius Ultralight Power Cams come with color-coded sewn slings. There are no specific customization options offered by Metolius.

However, many climbers choose to replace the slings with longer or shorter versions to suit their individual preferences. They are compatible with most standard climbing accessories.

Pros and Cons of Metolius Ultralight Power Cams

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Who Should Buy Metolius Ultralight Power Cams?

The Metolius Ultralight Power Cams are perfect for:

• Experienced trad climbers looking to reduce rack weight without sacrificing performance or safety.
• Climbers tackling long multi-pitch routes where every ounce counts.
• Those who frequently encounter tricky or shallow placements.

These cams might not be the best choice for:

• Beginner climbers who are just starting to build their trad rack and may be more price-conscious.
• Climbers who primarily climb in areas with perfect, parallel-sided cracks.

Must-have accessories or modifications:

• A good quality camming tool for cleaning placements.
• Consider replacing the slings with longer or shorter versions based on your personal preferences.

Conclusion on Metolius Ultralight Power Cams

The Metolius Ultralight Power Cams are a game-changer for trad climbers seeking to lighten their load without compromising performance. Their innovative design, high-quality construction, and user-friendly features make them a worthwhile investment.

The price is justified by the weight savings, increased placement versatility, and overall durability. I would wholeheartedly recommend the Metolius Ultralight Power Cams to any serious trad climber looking to upgrade their rack.

Take your climbing to the next level; invest in the Metolius Ultralight Power Cams and experience the difference!