Let’s Dive into Metolius Easy Aider
The Metolius Easy Aider is a specialized piece of climbing gear designed to make aid climbing more efficient and comfortable. Metolius, a well-respected name in the climbing world, has created this aider to streamline the process of ascending steep or overhanging terrain using artificial placements. This promises to be a step up from traditional aiders, offering quicker adjustments and enhanced foot support.
What led me to this product was the inherent inefficiency I experienced with traditional aiders on a big wall project in Yosemite. The constant fiddling with daisy chains and the struggle to find the right foot placement was eating up precious time and energy. I was searching for a system that offered faster adjustments and a more secure platform.
Upon unboxing the Metolius Easy Aider, my initial impression was one of robust construction and thoughtful design. The nylon webbing felt durable and the Biothane step stiffeners seemed like a game-changer for providing a solid foot platform. The overall weight of 7.5 oz felt reasonable for the added functionality.
Compared to a standard five-step aider made from basic webbing and a Yates adjustable aider, the Metolius Easy Aider immediately stood out due to its adjustability. I picked the Metolius Easy Aider over basic aiders as I needed a system for big walls which offer quick, on-the-fly adjustments, so I don’t waste energy fighting my gear. The Yates adjustable aider is good, but I thought that the biothane step would be an interesting step up and something I have not used before.
My first impression was excitement tempered with a bit of skepticism. While the concept seemed brilliant, I wondered how it would translate to real-world use, especially when weighted with my full body weight thousands of feet off the ground. Would the adjustability hold under pressure, or would it slip and slide?
Real-World Testing: Putting Metolius Easy Aider to the Test
First Use Experience
My first use of the Metolius Easy Aider was on a local crag, practicing aid climbing techniques on a steep, bolted route. This allowed me to get comfortable with the aider’s features in a controlled environment. I primarily tested how well the length adjustment would perform and how easy I could transition with it.
The Metolius Easy Aider performed well in dry conditions, as I could reliably count on the Biothane steps. The ease of adjustment was immediately apparent; pulling on the tail to change the foot height was far smoother and quicker than adjusting traditional daisy chains. Getting used to how to manipulate the system was a quick learning curve, only taking me 20 minutes or so.
The main issue I noticed after the first use was that the tail of the aider could become tangled with other gear on my harness.
Extended Use & Reliability
After several weeks of use, including multiple days on longer aid routes, the Metolius Easy Aider has proven to be a valuable addition to my climbing kit. The initial excitement has solidified into a genuine appreciation for its functionality. I have taken it up several routes in Yosemite as well as Zion.
The aider has held up well, with no significant signs of wear and tear on the nylon webbing or Biothane steps. The adjustment mechanism continues to function smoothly and reliably, even after being exposed to dirt and abrasion. I have cleaned it off with a brush and water and have found it to not be too much of a hassle.
Compared to my previous experiences with standard aiders, the Metolius Easy Aider offers a significant improvement in efficiency and comfort. Its quick adjustability allows me to move more fluidly on the wall, conserving energy and reducing frustration. The Biothane steps provide a more stable and comfortable platform for my feet than simple webbing loops.
Breaking Down the Features of Metolius Easy Aider
Specifications
The Metolius Easy Aider boasts several key specifications that contribute to its performance: It comes in at 94 inches (2388 mm) long. The Metolius Easy Aider is made from durable nylon webbing, which provides strength and abrasion resistance.
The Biothane step stiffeners offer a rigid platform for the foot, enhancing comfort and stability. Its breaking strength is 1.3 kN (300 lbf), which is sufficient for body-weight only. It weighs 7.5 oz.
These specifications are crucial because they directly impact the aider’s performance and usability. The nylon webbing ensures the aider can withstand the rigors of aid climbing, while the Biothane steps provide a comfortable and stable platform for my feet. The breaking strength is a vital safety consideration, reminding users that this aider is intended for body-weight only and should not be used for fall protection.
Performance & Functionality
The Metolius Easy Aider excels at its primary function: providing a means of ascending steep terrain using artificial placements. It is also an aider version of the Easy Daisy, so it can also be used as an ascender sling. The quick adjustment mechanism is a standout feature, allowing for rapid changes in foot height, optimizing efficiency on the wall.
The strength of the Metolius Easy Aider lies in its adjustability and Biothane step. A weakness of the aider is that the tail can get tangled. Overall, it far exceeded my expectations and has greatly improved my efficiency in big wall climbing.
Design & Ergonomics
The Metolius Easy Aider is designed with functionality and user comfort in mind. The quality of the materials used makes me confident that it will last. At 7.5 oz, the aider is easy to stow and the product design overall is ergonomic for transitioning.
The Metolius Easy Aider has a slight learning curve, as you need to get familiar with how to adjust the system. But, after a little practice, it quickly becomes intuitive.
Durability & Maintenance
Based on my experience so far, I anticipate that the Metolius Easy Aider will last for several seasons of regular use. The nylon webbing and Biothane steps appear to be highly resistant to wear and tear. It can also be easily cleaned and maintained as the nylon webbing does not absorb as much water or mud as other materials.
Accessories and Customization Options
The Metolius Easy Aider doesn’t come with any additional accessories, but it integrates seamlessly with existing climbing gear. The daisy chain attachment point allows for easy connection to harnesses and other equipment. There aren’t any customization options, but the Metolius Easy Aider can be used with other brands’ carabiners.
Pros and Cons of Metolius Easy Aider
Pros
- Extremely quick and easy adjustment: Streamlines movement on the wall.
- Biothane step stiffeners: Provide a comfortable and stable platform for the foot.
- Durable construction: Nylon webbing and Biothane stand up to the rigors of aid climbing.
- Lightweight: Doesn’t add unnecessary weight to your rack.
- Increases efficiency: Allows for faster and more fluid movement.
Cons
- Tail of the aider can get tangled with other gear.
- Breaking strength is only rated for body-weight.
Who Should Buy Metolius Easy Aider?
The Metolius Easy Aider is perfect for aid climbers tackling big walls, those who prioritize efficiency and comfort, and climbers seeking a more adjustable system than traditional aiders. It is also good for climbers looking for more support on their feet.
This is not for beginner climbers, as it requires you to already know the fundamentals of aid climbing. Also if you’re exclusively trad or sport climbing then this product isn’t for you. A must-have modification would be cord to tie the tail so it doesn’t get tangled with your gear.
Conclusion on Metolius Easy Aider
The Metolius Easy Aider is a well-designed and functional piece of climbing gear that delivers on its promise of improved efficiency and comfort. The price of $32.41 is more than justified. The Metolius Easy Aider far exceeded my expectations and is a great addition to your gear.
I would highly recommend it to any climber looking to streamline their aid climbing experience. Give the Metolius Easy Aider a try and experience the difference for yourself!