Let’s Dive into Black Diamond VaporLock Screwgate Carabiner
The Black Diamond VaporLock Screwgate Carabiner is Black Diamond’s offering for climbers and mountaineers seeking a lightweight, full-function pear-shaped locker. This carabiner is designed for belaying and rappelling, with a focus on providing a smooth increase in friction for better control. What makes this biner stand out is its impressive strength-to-weight ratio, giving climbers confidence without adding unnecessary bulk to their rack.
I was searching for a lightweight, reliable locking carabiner to replace my heavier HMS locker on multi-pitch climbs. The need to reduce overall weight without compromising safety led me directly to the VaporLock. I was also looking for a biner that would be easy to manipulate with gloves on during colder months.
Upon receiving the Black Diamond VaporLock Screwgate Carabiner, I immediately noticed its feathery weight. The anodized aluminum felt smooth and well-finished, indicating a high level of build quality. The pear shape was reassuringly familiar, suggesting comfortable handling with various belay devices.
Compared to my Petzl Attache and CAMP HMS Compact, the VaporLock is noticeably lighter. I chose the VaporLock over the others primarily for its weight savings and the added friction control it offers during rappels. The Black Diamond name also carries significant weight in the climbing community, known for quality and innovation.
My first impression was one of excitement. The lightweight design and reputation of Black Diamond immediately instilled confidence. I couldn’t wait to put it to use on the rock.
Real-World Testing: Putting Black Diamond VaporLock Screwgate Carabiner to the Test
First Use Experience
I first tested the Black Diamond VaporLock Screwgate Carabiner on a sport climbing trip to Red Rock Canyon, Nevada. I used it primarily for belaying and setting up top rope anchors. The dry desert conditions were ideal for testing its handling and smoothness.
The VaporLock performed flawlessly. The screwgate was easy to open and close, even with slightly sweaty hands. The pear shape accommodated my ATC guide perfectly, and I immediately noticed the increased friction control during rappels, providing a smoother, less jerky descent.
The VaporLock’s design felt intuitive right away. There was no learning curve, it just felt right in my hand and worked exactly as expected. This allowed me to focus on the climb instead of fiddling with gear.
No issues arose during the initial use. The Black Diamond VaporLock Screwgate Carabiner inspired confidence and performed as advertised. Its smooth operation and lightweight feel were immediately appreciated.
Extended Use & Reliability
After several months of use, the Black Diamond VaporLock Screwgate Carabiner has become a staple in my climbing kit. It has been used on various multi-pitch climbs, ice climbing expeditions, and even a few alpine scrambles. The carabiner shows minimal signs of wear and tear, a testament to its robust construction.
The anodized finish has held up surprisingly well, with only minor scratches from rock contact. The screwgate mechanism remains smooth and reliable, even after exposure to dirt, ice, and snow. Cleaning is simple, typically requiring just a quick rinse with water and drying with a cloth.
Compared to my previous HMS locker, the VaporLock significantly outperforms in terms of weight and friction control. It has made belaying and rappelling more comfortable and efficient, especially on longer routes. The VaporLock has become an indispensable piece of my climbing equipment.
Breaking Down the Features of Black Diamond VaporLock Screwgate Carabiner
Specifications
- Weight: The VaporLock weighs in at a mere 1.8 oz (52 g), making it incredibly lightweight for a full-function locking carabiner. This weight savings is crucial for climbers looking to minimize their gear load on long routes.
- Material: Constructed from aluminum, the VaporLock achieves an optimal balance of strength and weight. Aluminum is a durable and corrosion-resistant material, well-suited for outdoor use.
- Open Strength: The gate-open strength is rated at 7 kN (1,574 lbf). This demonstrates the biner’s ability to withstand significant force even when the gate is open.
- Carabiner Type: It is a locking biner with a screwgate closure. This ensures a secure and reliable connection, preventing accidental gate opening during use.
- Carabiner Size: The VaporLock is considered a standard-sized carabiner. This provides ample space for accommodating ropes, belay devices, and other gear.
- Munter Hitch Compatibility: It is Munter Hitch compatible on ropes up to 9.4 mm. This adds versatility in emergency situations where a belay device might be unavailable.
- Type H or HMS Connector: This means it is designed for dynamic belaying using a Munter Hitch or belay device. This ensures compatibility with various belaying techniques and equipment.
These specifications matter because they directly impact the safety and efficiency of climbing. The lightweight design reduces fatigue, while the high strength ratings provide peace of mind in critical situations. Munter hitch compatibility provides an additional layer of safety and adaptability.
Performance & Functionality
The Black Diamond VaporLock Screwgate Carabiner excels at its primary job: providing a secure and reliable connection for belaying and rappelling. The smooth screwgate action and pear shape make it easy to use with various belay devices. The increased friction control during rappels is a significant advantage, especially for less experienced climbers.
The VaporLock’s strengths lie in its lightweight design, smooth operation, and enhanced friction control. A potential weakness could be the screwgate mechanism, which, like all screwgates, requires manual tightening and can be prone to accidental loosening if not properly secured. Despite this, the VaporLock overwhelmingly meets and exceeds expectations for a locking carabiner in its class.
Design & Ergonomics
The Black Diamond VaporLock Screwgate Carabiner features a well-thought-out design. The pear shape is comfortable to hold and provides ample space for rope and belay device interaction. The keylock nose prevents snagging on slings or gear loops.
The build quality is excellent, with a smooth anodized finish and precise gate action. The biner is lightweight yet feels solid and robust. The design is user-friendly with minimal learning curve.
Durability & Maintenance
The Black Diamond VaporLock Screwgate Carabiner is built to last, using high-quality aluminum and a durable anodized finish. With proper care and maintenance, it should withstand years of use. Maintenance is minimal, requiring only occasional cleaning and inspection for damage.
Accessories and Customization Options
The Black Diamond VaporLock Screwgate Carabiner does not come with any specific accessories. It is designed to be compatible with a wide range of belay devices, ropes, and slings. There are no inherent customization options for the carabiner itself.
Pros and Cons of Black Diamond VaporLock Screwgate Carabiner
Pros
- Lightweight: Significantly reduces gear weight, crucial for long climbs.
- Smooth Operation: Easy-to-use screwgate and keylock nose prevent snagging.
- Increased Friction Control: Provides smoother rappels, especially with an ATC.
- Durable Construction: Aluminum build and anodized finish ensure longevity.
- Munter Hitch Compatible: Adds versatility in emergency situations.
Cons
- Screwgate Requires Vigilance: Needs manual tightening, prone to loosening if not properly secured.
- Not the Cheapest Option: Other locking biners are available at a lower price point.
Who Should Buy Black Diamond VaporLock Screwgate Carabiner?
- Perfect for: Climbers, mountaineers, and guides looking for a lightweight, reliable, and versatile locking carabiner. Sport climbers, trad climbers, and alpinists will all appreciate its performance and weight savings.
- Who should skip this product? Beginners who are just starting out might consider a less expensive option while learning the ropes. Those primarily focused on gym climbing might not require the specialized features of the VaporLock.
- Must-have accessories or modifications? None required, although pairing it with a high-quality belay device like the Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso is recommended for optimal performance.
Conclusion on Black Diamond VaporLock Screwgate Carabiner
The Black Diamond VaporLock Screwgate Carabiner is an exceptional piece of climbing equipment. Its lightweight design, smooth operation, and enhanced friction control make it a top contender in the locking carabiner category. While the screwgate requires some vigilance, the overall performance and durability justify the price.
The value proposition is strong for climbers who prioritize weight savings and reliability. For those seeking a versatile and dependable locking carabiner, the Black Diamond VaporLock Screwgate Carabiner is an excellent choice. I wholeheartedly recommend it.
If you’re ready to lighten your load and climb with confidence, consider adding the Black Diamond VaporLock Screwgate Carabiner to your rack. You won’t be disappointed!