Scope sight in and M193 exterior ballistics

I am attempting to sight in the following scope on the following rifle:

Leupold M8 6x42 AO Tactical with 3/4 mildot retical.

Remington 700VS chambered in .233 Remmington with barrel cut to 18' and threaded to accept the AWC Raider and Harris Bi-Pod with tilt.

I believe I have the scope solidly mounted. I have gone through the following steps using M193 (Winchester/Olin whitebox Q3131) ammo.

I created a custom 25 yard target that I used to adjust the turrets so that I hit the bull dead center. Five shots produced one ragged hole in the center once turret adjustments were made.

My best measurement indicates that the scope axis is 1.8' higher than the bore axis. I used a dial caliper and measured from the center of the eyepiece to the center of the cocking piece on the bolt.

My next step was to shoot at 100 yards. The rifle shot high as I expected. I was able to hit the center of the target by placing the bull between the first two 'dots' (this scope uses the older eliptical style dot) above the crosshair. Because of heat, dehydration, and sweat pouring in my eyes, I didn't shoot groups to brag about. Still, I thought I would move to the 200 yard line as I wanted a 200 yard zero.

At 200 yards, I was still shooting high. I was on paper and even landed a shot in the 10 ring although my group at this time was more like a shotgun pattern with 20 rounds shot at that target.

Now to my questions. About what range can I expect the bullet to drop back through the sight axis with dead on at 25 yards? I know the bullet is following a path that intercepts the sight axis at 25 yards. It must rise to some maximum hight at some distance down range and then drop back through the sight axis again.

Basicly, I am interested in a drop table that goes out to 300 yards, the maximum range I intend to ever shoot this rifle.

Is 200 yards a good zero range? Would 250 or some other yardage be better?

Once I have a zero locked in, I would like to set the target turrets on the scope to zero so that I can adjust for appropriate ranges to the target without using kentucky windage or anthing like that. I want to place the crosshair on the spot I wish to hit.

Because of the low recoil and low noise level with the suppressor, this is a very fun rifle to shoot. I would like to achieve optimum precision with it. Any advice would be gratefully received. If there is an online ballistics calculator, that would be great. I would love to have both the adjustments for ranges out to 300 yards and the time it takes the bullet to reach those distances. The remaining velocity would also be nice.

I have not yet had an opportunity to chrony the 55gr FMJ of the M193 out of this rifle. As it is the VS, it has the 1:12 barrel rather than the 1:9 barrel of the 700P in .223 Rem. I would like to try M855 or the Speer 62gr out of this rifle, but I understand the twist is too slow. I don't know how bad the accuracy will be with the heavier bullet. I guess there is one way to find out.

Yes, your twist is too slow for M855. They will probably tumble before 25 yards. And your poor groups? It isn't because you are a bad shot. The ammo you are using is junk for accurate shooting. M855 is even worse. Make some decent handloads or buy factory ammo. Anything will shoot better than FMJ bullets. The only thing that ammo you are using is good for is blasting and saving the brass. That brass is great for reloading. Once you make some reloads, you will be amazed at how much better shot you are! Then you can figure out your trajectories using JBM online ballistics - http://www.eskimo.com/~jbm/ballistics/ballistics.html

# Yes, your twist is too slow for M855. They will probably tumble before # 25 yards.

That quickly? Do you think there would be danger of striking the baffels in the suppressor? That thing cost me more than the rifle! I am also not in a hurry to go through all that Form-4 crap again. Although I would like an AWC Thundertrap for .30 Cal. I have a .300 Win Mag that really bothers the neighbors. A nice can on the end would make it much friendlier in terms of noise polution. I also need a proper scope for such a rifle (700P DM). That will have to wait. I want to get the .223 sorted out.

# And your poor groups? It isn't because you are a bad shot. The ammo # you are using is junk for accurate shooting. M855 is even worse.

Heh. Thanks for the support. Still, I would expect at least 2MOA out of M193. Based on the 25 yard target, I would expect close to 1/2 MOA out of the barrel with a good load. I could be optimistic there. However, I am quite certain that sub-MOA groups of 5 should be the norm. The gun smith who cut and threaded the barrel for me made a match crown. It is quite sharp. He also did a very good job with the thread protector. It is almost a perfect match to the barrel.

# Make some decent handloads or buy factory ammo. Anything will shoot # better than FMJ bullets. The only thing that ammo you are using is # good for is blasting and saving the brass. That brass is great for # reloading. Once you make some reloads, you will be amazed at how # much better shot you are!

I have an RCBS Rock Chucker single stage press and RCBS Dies for ..223. They are full length dies, but I am hoping I can adjust for just neck sizing. I have saved just about every piece of brass run through that rifle, so I am confident that it is fire-formed to the chamber. I have not indexed the brass. I just hope the chamber is concentric with the rifle bore. I have not worked out the distance to the lands. I have an RCBS Precision Mic, so I should be able to make up a dummy round that sits just off the lands. Or I could through caution to the wind and have the bullet jam into the lands when chambered. That should build up some good chamber preasure.

I want a bullet that will yeild optimal accuracy from the 1:12 twist (and the 18' barrel) that is tough enough to deal with durable varmints. Some of them have thick skulls. I am hoping to gain sufficient proficiency to hit chicken eggs at 200 yards, maybe even 300 yards. I will be satisfied with grapefruit sized targets at 300 yards. What bullet would you recommend? I think 50gr weight is required for reaching out to 300 yards.

I have Winchester 748 and a supply of small rifle primers for reloading. The primers are Remmington 6 1/2. I also have Vhit 140 (probably too slow) and H4895.

# Then you can figure out your trajectories using JBM online # ballistics - # http://www.eskimo.com/~jbm/ballistics/ballistics.html

Thanks for the link. I've bookmarked it. I only have an F1 Chrony for measuring MV. It is the base model. I can't calculate BC from that. I would need an accurate figure from the bullet maker.

# I have not worked out the distance to # the lands. I have an RCBS Precision Mic, so I should be able to make # up a dummy round that sits just off the lands. Or I could through # caution to the wind and have the bullet jam into the lands when # chambered. That should build up some good chamber preasure. #

Don't bother loading to anything but mag length until you get some experience with the cartridge and rifle you are loading for. Load them to 2.250' and forget it.

# I want a bullet that will yeild optimal accuracy from the 1:12 twist # (and the 18' barrel) that is tough enough to deal with durable # varmints. Some of them have thick skulls. I am hoping to gain # sufficient proficiency to hit chicken eggs at 200 yards, maybe even # 300 yards. I will be satisfied with grapefruit sized targets at 300 # yards. What bullet would you recommend? I think 50gr weight is # required for reaching out to 300 yards. #

You want 52gr. Match bullets for target shooting. For varmints, the 55gr Nosler Ballistic Tip is one of the best, IMHO. Solid base that seems to punch through bones.

# I have Winchester 748 and a supply of small rifle primers for # reloading. The primers are Remmington 6 1/2. I also have Vhit 140 # (probably too slow) and H4895.

W748 is very good for 50-55gr bullets. High velocity and great accuracy. Play with the other 2 - they may do very well. Remington 6 1/2 may be too soft. Try Remington 7 1/2.

# I only have an F1 Chrony # for measuring MV. It is the base model.

That will do just fine for all your needs.