floating Rem 700 barrel

What do you guys say? I have a 700 with a regular barrel, not one of those heavy jobs. I read that floating light barrels can cause it to whip around more and decrease accuracy. Also, what's your prefered method for floating a

On the same note, is it a good idea to float a 30-06 mauser barrel? Mine is a military style two step barrel.

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As always it can depend on many things. My 700 sporter would heat up and string the shots to the right and up after about 4 shots. I floated the barrel by cutting,rasping and sanding out the bump around the front sling point and elsewhere tuil I had a gap all the way to the back of the barrel. .. The accuracy is still good and the shots do not string out nearly as bad. I did put some kind of protective coating (varnish or somehting, too long ago to remember what) to protect the wood under the barrel.

# What do you guys say? I have a 700 with a regular barrel, not one of those # heavy jobs. I read that floating light barrels can cause it to whip around # more and decrease accuracy. Also, what's your prefered method for floating a # barrel?

those > ... around > ... floating a > ... When I float Rem 700 sporter weight barrels I use a pressure point (pad) about four-inches or so behind the fore-end tip. This pressure point dampens the harmonic waves or vibration.The idea behind floating a barrel is to not have any wood touching the barrel. Places where the wood touches the barrel can swell in high humidity, damp conditions or if the barrel expands from heat caused by rapid firing. A pad made of the same material used to 'glass bed' the action is used for the pressure point. I assume you plan to bed the

I really have no idea. But I may have a source of knowledge for you: check out <snipercountry.com> There is a forum full of guys who are only concerned with long range accuracy.

Thanks to you and everyone else who answered in email

# #What do you guys say? I have a 700 with a regular barrel, not one of those #heavy jobs. I read that floating light barrels can cause it to whip around #more and decrease accuracy. Also, what's your prefered method for floating a # #barrel? #

A rifle barrel will vibrate like a tuning fork when fired. Anything that causes irregular or changing vibrations from shot to shot will effect accuracy and cause changes in zero. With contact between barrel and stock, changes in humidity a/o heating of the barrel can cause chenges in pressure between them. Floating the barrel, leaving no contact forward of the recoil lug, will let the barrel vibrate without interference.

Get yourself a piece of 1/2' or 3/4' dowel (smaller than the barrel channel). about two feet long. Around about 6' of one end of the dowel tack/staple some medium grit sandpaper. With the rifle out of the stock you should be able to see where they are rubbing together. Many times the rubbed spot is on the side rather than on the bottom where you'd think it should be. With a M-700 there will be a raised pad of wood in about the front three or four inches of the channel. Start removing that pad. Using a candle smoke the part of the barrel that will come in contact with the wood. Carefully put the rifle back in the stock and torque down the action screws. Remove the rifle and see where its making contact. Remove a little more. Try it again. When you can slide a strip of typing paper or a dollar bill from the front all the way back to the recoil lug without it hanging up you're done. Re-seal the wood where you sanded it. Bill Van Houten (USA Ret) 'No matter how hard you try, you can't throw a potato chip very far.'

#This was my next question

Very simply it is when you cut out some wood in the area where the receiver is in a rifle. YOU get a kit (normally) that has some special epoxy glue and some fiberglass (from where the glass bedding comes from) or some metal powder and mix it with the epoxy. A special release agent is applied to the metal to keep it from sitcking to the stock. YOu fill in the cutout wood with the epoxy and then screw the stock and receiver back to gether, let set tuil the epoxy has set up and remover the action and remove the release agent. then put it back together. This mates the action very tigh to the wood. Lots more to get it correct but this is the general idea.

# #1. Wrap the barrel in a single layer of masking tape, and glass bed the # #action as usual. # # This was my next question